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#23
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| On Sep 30, 3:53*pm, jIM <noreplysoc...[at]hotmail.com> wrote: - quote - > I would look at the following aspects to improve situation:
The OP has a $500,000 non-retirement account so he doesn't need to> 1) Make sure you have 6-12 months expenses in cash (emergency fund)- I > did not see this mentioned. have 6-12 months of cash for emergencies since some brokerages allow one to borrow against that type of account. The OP could also sell those funds that aren't depressed and have a large tax impact. -- Ron ------ Misc.invest.financial-plan is a moderated newsgroup where Moderators strive to keep the conversations on-topic for financial planning. Other posting guidelines include a request for brevity and another for trimming posts to which we respond. For all of the other tips and suggestions, see "FROM THE MODERATORS: Posting to misc.invest.financial-plan", a weekly post now on the Newsgroup. |
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#22
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| On Sep 27, 4:46*pm, mn.d...[at]yahoo.com wrote: - quote - > Hello Fellow financial planners & investors, > I have been a do-it-yourselfer, investing for 15 years, since I > started a job after completing an engineering PhD (I am in silicon > valley area, but I am not a comp science or electronics engineer). > Over the years, my wife and I have been aggressive savers, with a view > towards early retirement, and we think we have done well. Would > appreciate some critique and analysis, and discussions on potential > blind spots we may be missing. > Self age: 41; spouse: 35; two kids, 7 and 4. > GOAL: Retire by 45, definitely by 50. I think your details suggest you have the accumulation aspect of retirement planning down. I second the advice to get a will. I would look at the following aspects to improve situation: 1) Make sure you have 6-12 months expenses in cash (emergency fund)- I did not see this mentioned. 2) You need to start thinking of withdraw techniques. This has tax implications on many levels and over the next 5-10 years this might suggest what you buy or invest in. 3) I would make sure you have a good handle on retirement expenses. Will travel increase? Will spending increase? Health care costs? Moving?- if so will property taxes and maintainence change? 4) 2) and 3) kind of go hand in hand. Withdraw techniques can suggest how much you need to save, the budget suggests how much earnings you need from investments each year. If you chose to live off dividends alone (a good early retirement plan- as dividends tend to keep up with inflation), you might want to increase what you send to the DRIPs now, as well as liquidate some of the company stock for this as well. 5) If you chose a more conservative allocation going forward, I would advise to use muni bonds because of 28% fed tax rate and I assume a high amount of state taxes too. ------ Misc.invest.financial-plan is a moderated newsgroup where Moderators strive to keep the conversations on-topic for financial planning. Other posting guidelines include a request for brevity and another for trimming posts to which we respond. For all of the other tips and suggestions, see "FROM THE MODERATORS: Posting to misc.invest.financial-plan", a weekly post now on the Newsgroup. |
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#21
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| A quick annuity calculator here: http://www.immediateannuities.com/ Some people might put a portionof their savings (say 1/3) in annuity to generate baseline living expenses and invest the rest more aggressively. Annuities pay slightly more than 30-year treasuries (6%) if you are under 60, then increase with age. ------ Misc.invest.financial-plan is a moderated newsgroup where Moderators strive to keep the conversations on-topic for financial planning. Other posting guidelines include a request for brevity and another for trimming posts to which we respond. For all of the other tips and suggestions, see "FROM THE MODERATORS: Posting to misc.invest.financial-plan", a weekly post now on the Newsgroup. |
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#20
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| On Sep 29, 7:14*pm, BreadWithS...[at]fractious.net wrote: - quote - > But for what it's worth, a 65yr-old man in my state
For a lifetime annuity purchased in a taxable account, the purchase> can get single-life income, no payments to beneficiaries, > no inflation adjustments annuity paying around $675/mo > for $100,000. *That's $8100/yr, or about 8%. cost is amortized over 360 months for under 56, 310 months for 56-60, 260 months for a 61-65 year old, 210 months for 66-70, and 160 months for 71 and older. That will reduce the taxes from the annuity. -- Ron ------ Misc.invest.financial-plan is a moderated newsgroup where Moderators strive to keep the conversations on-topic for financial planning. Other posting guidelines include a request for brevity and another for trimming posts to which we respond. For all of the other tips and suggestions, see "FROM THE MODERATORS: Posting to misc.invest.financial-plan", a weekly post now on the Newsgroup. |
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#19
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| Chip <chip.wood[at]ieee.org> writes: - quote - > dapperdobbs wrote:
The thing is that pensions are more complex than such a> > Also keep in mind that every 10k of pension or retirement benefits > > implies an underlying net worth of about 143k, assuming a 7% rate > > of return. > This is interesting. Can you give me a cite or URL where this is > spelled out? I have heard of a 12X mult of the yearly pension, but > this exact figure is new to me. simple rule of thumb can account for. To come a lot closer, I'd say to go get some quotes for current prices for immediate annuities. The values, you'll note, depend on variables such as current interest rates, your age, your sex, if it's a second-to-die (and then, on your spouse's age and sex, too, of course), if it's inflation indexed or not, etc. But for what it's worth, a 65yr-old man in my state can get single-life income, no payments to beneficiaries, no inflation adjustments annuity paying around $675/mo for $100,000. That's $8100/yr, or about 8%. The same annuity for a 45-yr-old man pays only about 6%, and even less if it's a woman instead of a man. You'll probably need to talk to an insurance agent to get quotes for more complex situations (ie. specific companies, inflation-index, etc). -- Plain Bread alone for e-mail, thanks. The rest gets trashed. No HTML in E-Mail! -- http://www.expita.com/nomime.html Are you posting responses that are easy for others to follow? http://www.greenend.org.uk/rjk/2000/06/14/quoting ------ Misc.invest.financial-plan is a moderated newsgroup where Moderators strive to keep the conversations on-topic for financial planning. Other posting guidelines include a request for brevity and another for trimming posts to which we respond. For all of the other tips and suggestions, see "FROM THE MODERATORS: Posting to misc.invest.financial-plan", a weekly post now on the Newsgroup. |
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#18
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| mn.door[at]yahoo.com writes: - quote - > On Sep 27, 2:53*pm, "John A. Weeks III" <j...[at]johnweeks.com> wrote:
If you're comfortable with that risk - I see no reason to hurry> > *mn.d...[at]yahoo.com wrote: > I am not keeping my mortgage for tax savings, but more for the > reason that the rate on it is pretty good (only 4.5% from April 2004 > through April 2011), and even after the current severe loss in the to pay down a mortgage on which you are paying 4.5% -- as long as you are still saving otherwise. If that mortgage rate resets to a rate you don't like, make sure that if you want to, at that point, you can pay it off in cash. You may still be able to refinance when that time comes, but while a low mortgage rate may be an incentive to save in higher-yielding instruments, in order for that to work, you still have to be doing that saving. (which, it sounds like, you are doing plenty of) - quote - > > Second is dump the life insurance. *Why pay for that when you have
I wouldn't dump it.> > more than that much sitting in the bank? > John, can you elaborate a bit more on this? - quote - > Our reasoning is that, should I die, wife should be able to pay off
Until you have nobody dependent on your *income* - ie. if> mortgage, immediate-fund the college savings for kids, without > touching our investments for retirements (the 401Ks and outside > investments), and, fo wife to be able to go from 60% work to 25% work, > or so. For 500K term I am paying about $350 per year (current one is you are fully retired and have stopped saving and have enough assets to live off of and for your dependents to live off of - you need insurance. You're asking the right question - if I die, then what happens to the wife and kids? If you die tomorrow, and your plan is for you to work for another 5 to 10 years to save for your retirement, until you've finished saving, you have folks whose well-being depends on your ongoing income. And, frankly, even if the plan is to have saved enough in 5-10 years, your insurance coverage should last longer than that - it's entirely possible, even likely, that it'll take you longer than you originally planned. And $350/yr for half a million in coverage is a pretty good deal. You should certainly do some up-to-date comparison shopping, but that's certainly not a lot of money for your coverage. Do make sure you have *disability* insurance, though. You're more likely to be disabled in the next 5-10 years than you are to die. I just went back and checked your original note and it looks like you have decent coverage from work - make sure that the policies are portable if possible (ie. if you leave that employer, you may be able to take them with you), and that they cover you the way you think they do (ie. own-occupation, etc). - quote - > > Third, I wouldn't mess with drips. *I don't see the value of any
I wouldn't bother with them, either. Consolidate to a low-cost> > investment that makes one have to jump through those kinds of hoops. > You are right, some DRIPS have put in a lot of hoops. Fortunately, brokerage. You should be able to have the custodians of the various drips transfer the shares to a Fidelity or similar low-cost brokerage, and if you still want the dividends reinvested, most of them will do that for you for no additional cost, too. - quote - > mine are XOM, LMT, BAC, PFE, IIBK, and all of these are eitehr fee-
Depending on how big a part of your portfolio they are,> free, or miniscule fee, and it's all on auto-pilot. I have not had to > fill any forms, or make any call in years; each month just there's an > auto-withdrawal from my credit union a/c, and I get monthly statement. maybe it's easier just to leave them as they are, especially if you intend to keep buying into them automatically like that. But I'd rather see you buy into a high-quality, low-cost *diversified* fund automatically instead. DRIP or not, you are managing a portfolio of individual stocks by hand, and in a manner which makes it very cumbersome to rebalance or adjust. - quote - > > Fourth, I'd consolidate this stuff at a brokerage house or a
As I said above.> Thinking about this, but still not decided about paying someone to - quote - > > Fifth, visit a family lawyer and get a will set up. *You don't
Let me repeat for you, then: GET A WILL!> Yeah, this is one area where we have been very lazy. We tried once or > twice, read all Nolo press books, started getting some references for > family lawyers, but never got to the point of completing selection, > making appointments and moving ahead. You do NOT want the state deciding what happens to your kids if you and your wife both unfortunately die. You have enough assets that you should be considering a family trust to hold them in the event of both of your deaths and for the benefit of the kids. And you want to be sure that they go to the guardian of your choice. You should be able to get a competent lawyer to draw up the appropriate documents - you and your wife *both* needs wills, and likely, at least a trust or two (especially if you expect your family assets to increase enough that you'll be retiring at 45-50), and while you're at it, probably a couple of durable powers of attorney, health-care proxies and HIPAA release forms. The whole collection of things shouldn't cost more than a thousand or two, depending on what trusts you set up. Even if you aren't doing any trusts and just do simple wills, POAs, etc, it's worth a few hundred bucks to have a lawyer draw it up (and likely, notarize when witnesses sign it and all). Do get and read the Nolo books as appropriate - their "Plan Your Estate" book is quite good. But you'll likely still want to get a lawyer. Do not wait. Start to think about guardians and possible trustees, discuss with your wife (and with the potential guardians, etc), and get moving on this. - quote - > I know my previous post was long, as is this one, but you skipped over
If it's possible to diversify them out, do so. If it's not> the wild card. What do you think of the employer stocks I have, which > is becoming 25% to 30% of total. Time to sell, just to keep > percentages in check (hey, history is full of Enron, Merryl Lynch, > Wamu, Bear Sterns,...), or keep it, since it is a private equity, > valued just once, and not subject to market volatility. (ie. you may not be able to sell), see if you can hedge it out somehow. This is not the sort of thing it's easy to give advice about here or without a whole lot more information and it's probably worth seeing someone at a brokerage with more expertise for this. In many cases, if one has a heap of a single stock, it's just best off to bite the bullet, pay the cap gains and sell off to diversify. There are some other strategies which may be possible with publicly trade stocks (ie. an exchange fund (note - NOT an ETF), for example, but you'll need to see a specialist for this sort of things and you will pay for it!) -- Plain Bread alone for e-mail, thanks. The rest gets trashed. No HTML in E-Mail! -- http://www.expita.com/nomime.html Are you posting responses that are easy for others to follow? http://www.greenend.org.uk/rjk/2000/06/14/quoting ------ Misc.invest.financial-plan is a moderated newsgroup where Moderators strive to keep the conversations on-topic for financial planning. Other posting guidelines include a request for brevity and another for trimming posts to which we respond. For all of the other tips and suggestions, see "FROM THE MODERATORS: Posting to misc.invest.financial-plan", a weekly post now on the Newsgroup. |
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#17
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| "joetaxpayer" <joetaxpayer[at]nospam.com> wrote in message news:JISdnTrSwobETELVnZ2dnUVZ_qXinZ2d[at]comcast.com... - quote - > > I really enjoy your posts, but it has been many moons since we could > > earn 4.5% risk-free "elsewhere". .. - quote - > Not more than a year or so ago ...
Moons ==> Months."a year or so ago" ==> 12 months. 12 months ==> 12 moons ==> "many moons". Q.E.D. BTW -- the single last year equates to (depending on when you're reading this) about a negative 25%, wiping out much more than your last year's worth of growth. |
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#16
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| dapperdobbs wrote: - quote - > Also keep in mind that every 10k of pension or retirement benefits
This is interesting. Can you give me a cite or URL where this is> implies an underlying net worth of about 143k, assuming a 7% rate of > return. spelled out? I have heard of a 12X mult of the yearly pension, but this exact figure is new to me. Chip ------ Misc.invest.financial-plan is a moderated newsgroup where Moderators strive to keep the conversations on-topic for financial planning. Other posting guidelines include a request for brevity and another for trimming posts to which we respond. For all of the other tips and suggestions, see "FROM THE MODERATORS: Posting to misc.invest.financial-plan", a weekly post now on the Newsgroup. |
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#15
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| "joetaxpayer" <joetaxpayer[at]nospam.com> wrote in message news:JISdnTrSwobETELVnZ2dnUVZ_qXinZ2d[at]comcast.com... - quote - > > I really enjoy your posts, but it has been many moons since we could > > earn 4.5% risk-free "elsewhere". .. - quote - > Not more than a year or so ago ...
Moons ==> Months."a year or so ago" ==> 12 months. 12 months ==> 12 moons ==> "many moons". Q.E.D. BTW -- the single last year equates to (depending on when you're reading this) about a negative 25%, wiping out much more than your last year's worth of growth. |
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#14
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| You need to analyze for expected expenses and have at least 20 - 25 times that before social security age and 12 - 16 times after. I'm guessing you are spending about $10K a month based on your income and fairly agressive savings. The largest overlooked expense is health insurance. People age 60-65 pay about $600 a month apiece now, but rates are doubling about every 5-7 years. I'd budget at least $3000 a month in your case for you and your spouse in your 60s. So with $13K a month in expenses, you'd need 3-4 million in the bank. You are about a third the way there which is good for your age. ------ Misc.invest.financial-plan is a moderated newsgroup where Moderators strive to keep the conversations on-topic for financial planning. Other posting guidelines include a request for brevity and another for trimming posts to which we respond. For all of the other tips and suggestions, see "FROM THE MODERATORS: Posting to misc.invest.financial-plan", a weekly post now on the Newsgroup. |
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#13
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| On Sep 29, 5:12*am, mn.d...[at]yahoo.com wrote: - quote - > On Sep 28, 12:51*pm, Ron Peterson <r...[at]shell.core.com> wrote:
I had to ask to cover all the possibilities.> > How soon does your pension become vested, and when can you start > > getting your pension? > PENSION? Surely you are kidding. Not only my company does not have any > pension, none of my friends' companies have any pension. In fact, I > don't know anyone younger than 45 whose job has pension (I know there > are such jobs, such as postman, bus driver, etc.) But certainly none > in the professional areas, in silicon valley. Do you want to continue working after you retire either in a part-time basis or in a different job? I think that your investment earnings need to exceed your current expenses by a comfortable factor to make retirement feasible. -- Ron ------ Misc.invest.financial-plan is a moderated newsgroup where Moderators strive to keep the conversations on-topic for financial planning. Other posting guidelines include a request for brevity and another for trimming posts to which we respond. For all of the other tips and suggestions, see "FROM THE MODERATORS: Posting to misc.invest.financial-plan", a weekly post now on the Newsgroup. |
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#12
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| On Sep 28, 12:51*pm, Ron Peterson <r...[at]shell.core.com> wrote: - quote - > > WILD CARD: I have employer stock (not options) worth 350K (pre cap-
PENSION? Surely you are kidding. Not only my company does not have any> > gains tax). This is a private company stock, valued once a year in Oct > > (i.e., price remains fixed for the year), encashable once a year over > > a 2 months window; has a 3-year history of paying annual dividends at > > about 2% of the stock value. The stock has grown 7-fold over the last > > 7 years, but the future growth is expected to be more modest, say 15% > > -20% a year for next 2-3 years. What to do with it? Sell it, and pay > > off the mortgage, and live "debt free" or let it grow... > Private companies are valued conservatively, so keep the stock until > you leave your job. > Once you retire, medical insurance may be a major problem. > Rather than completely retiring, your wife and you should consider > getting other work such as new company start-ups, research, or > academic teaching. > How soon does your pension become vested, and when can you start > getting your pension? pension, none of my friends' companies have any pension. In fact, I don't know anyone younger than 45 whose job has pension (I know there are such jobs, such as postman, bus driver, etc.) But certainly none in the professional areas, in silicon valley. - quote - > --
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Misc.invest.financial-plan is a moderated newsgroup where Moderators strive> * * Ron to keep the conversations on-topic for financial planning. Other posting guidelines include a request for brevity and another for trimming posts to which we respond. For all of the other tips and suggestions, see "FROM THE MODERATORS: Posting to misc.invest.financial-plan", a weekly post now on the Newsgroup. |
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#11
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| "Elizabeth Richardson" <erichktn[at]worldnet.att.net> writes: - quote - > This is about as ignorant a comment as I've read here. Most jobs that are
If you go back to my post, I did say that some people do have jobs> really necessary to be performed cannot be done telecommuting. where having a car is a necessary part of it. - quote - > Most farmers actually need a reliable vehicle, for instance.
Indeed, this is one example of a person who not only needs a vehiclein the course of actually doing their work, but is also most likely constrained to living in a rural area. - quote - > Very few construction workers have jobs within walking distance of their
Here in the Boston area, construction workers are usually driven to> homes, and public transportation probably doesn't get you to the > construction site either. the job site in a truck owned by the contractor. I'll bet a very large fraction of them don't have cars of their own. FWIW, I'm an engineer, and in the almost 30 years I've been in this business I've literally *never* lived where I couldn't walk or take public transportation to work and to shopping and other places I need/want to go on a regular basis. This includes having lived in the Seattle, St. Louis, Salt Lake City and New Haven in addition to Boston. (You mentioned hardware stores -- there are two within a 10-minute walk of where I live now, plus a Home Depot a few miles away on a direct bus line.) I contrast that to how I grew up; my dad was also an engineer, but we lived in such deep outer suburbia that he drove about 40 miles each way to work every day. Living like that was my dad's choice, not a necessity of his job. It was a luxury, as much as the mini-mansion and parking lot full of late-model cars that he kept. 1970's Detroit thinking, as I said, when gas was cheap and the economy ran on the automotive industry. Nowadays the economy runs on the Internet, and the Internet has made it possible for a lot of people not to have to "go" to work at all. Since I'm not tied to working in any particular location, I'm not sure I want to stay in Boston indefinitely, but there are plenty of other walkable cities with decent public transportation out there, as previously noted. The car-sharing services have really been catching on in many cities as well. Zipcar is super-convenient for the cases where I do need a car -- to get somewhere that public transportation doesn't go, to take the cats to the vet, to bring landscaping supplies home from the aforementioned Home Depot, etc. While I did own a car for many years even when I didn't need one on a daily basis, after having used a car-sharing service instead for several years now I don't really ever want to go back to being a car-owner again. Anyway.... I'm not claiming that nobody needs to own a car -- only that it's not a given that *everybody* needs to own one. And if you don't need a car, it's not an "investment". -Sandra the cynic ------ Misc.invest.financial-plan is a moderated newsgroup where Moderators strive to keep the conversations on-topic for financial planning. Other posting guidelines include a request for brevity and another for trimming posts to which we respond. For all of the other tips and suggestions, see "FROM THE MODERATORS: Posting to misc.invest.financial-plan", a weekly post now on the Newsgroup. |
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#10
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| "Sandra Loosemore" <noreply[at]frogsonice.com> wrote in message news:m3ej34rv0z.fsf[at]frogsonice.com... - quote - > Anyway, my point here is that telling folks they need to "invest" in a
This is about as ignorant a comment as I've read here. Most jobs that are> reliable car is 1970's Detroit thinking. Nowadays, not every working > adult really needs to own a car -- and for those who don't, a car is > an unnecessary expense, not any kind of investment. Moreover, > choosing to live in an area where you need to drive 10 or 20 miles to > get to the places where you need to go every day seems to me to be as > pointlessly over-consumptive as buying the mini-mansion or late model > car lot in front of it. really necessary to be performed cannot be done telecommuting. As a consumer, you should really learn where those things you consume come from, other than China. Most farmers actually need a reliable vehicle, for instance. Just going to the hardware store might be a necessity some days. Very few construction workers have jobs within walking distance of their homes, and public transportation probably doesn't get you to the construction site either. Those are two rather common jobs for whom a reliable vehicle is a necessity. Oh, maybe a doctor should have a car, too, just in case. Over-consumptive? Give me a break. Elizabeth Richardson ------ Misc.invest.financial-plan is a moderated newsgroup where Moderators strive to keep the conversations on-topic for financial planning. Other posting guidelines include a request for brevity and another for trimming posts to which we respond. For all of the other tips and suggestions, see "FROM THE MODERATORS: Posting to misc.invest.financial-plan", a weekly post now on the Newsgroup. |
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#9
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| On Sep 27, 3:46*pm, mn.d...[at]yahoo.com wrote: - quote - > Self age: 41; spouse: 35; two kids, 7 and 4.
You probably won't have enough net worth to comfortably retire without> GOAL: Retire by 45, definitely by 50. working at age 45. - quote - > Home: in SF Bay Area, bought 10 years back [at] 360K; remodeled with
Your house has to be worth more than that. Get a formal appraisal and> about 100K 1 year back. Presently valued at about 650K (after the fall > in prices; before was at about 800K). get a building inspector to find things that might need to be repaired so that you will be able to put it on the market. - quote - > Mortgage: 210K. 7-year fixed mortgage at 4.5%, will convert to ARM in
That's good, don't pay off early unless your rate goes to 7% or more.> April 2011 (in 2.5 years) > HELOC: 45K, ARM, [at] 4.25% presently (prime MINUS 1/8th or so) - quote - > Income: Self 140K; wife: 60K (works only 60% of the time, to help with
That's good. Remember that Social Security averages the highest 35> children after school) years of earning, so if you can stretch your working years out it will help. (I know SS doesn't pay that much, but it helps.) - quote - > Retirement savings: $420K total.
You have a good balance between retirement and non-retirement> Details: 400K in two 401Ks; 20K in IRAs (don't qualify for Roth). > Retirement funds are broadly diversified in S&P 500 index, Growth > index, and a bunch of other mutual funds. No single fund more than > 10%; international about 25%; all stock funds. The total has been as > high as almost 500K, before the last 1-year's downturn. > Nonretirement savings: Total: 500K (details below) > * DRIPS (XOM: 70%, PFE: 6%, BAC: 8%, LMT: 12%, IIBK: 4%): total: 200K > * Mutual Funds: (Vanguard 500: 25%, Vanguard Growth: 25%, Wells Fargo > Enterprise: 50%) total: 250K > *529 funds for children: (50% for each child, CA scholarshare mutual > funds): 40K total. > *Misc. 10K savings. - quote - > LTC: NONE
As your net worth increases, you may not need LTC insurance, but youneed it now. - quote - > WILD CARD: I have employer stock (not options) worth 350K (pre cap-
Private companies are valued conservatively, so keep the stock until> gains tax). This is a private company stock, valued once a year in Oct > (i.e., price remains fixed for the year), encashable once a year over > a 2 months window; has a 3-year history of paying annual dividends at > about 2% of the stock value. The stock has grown 7-fold over the last > 7 years, but the future growth is expected to be more modest, say 15% > -20% a year for next 2-3 years. What to do with it? Sell it, and pay > off the mortgage, and live "debt free" or let it grow... you leave your job. Once you retire, medical insurance may be a major problem. Rather than completely retiring, your wife and you should consider getting other work such as new company start-ups, research, or academic teaching. How soon does your pension become vested, and when can you start getting your pension? -- Ron ------ Misc.invest.financial-plan is a moderated newsgroup where Moderators strive to keep the conversations on-topic for financial planning. Other posting guidelines include a request for brevity and another for trimming posts to which we respond. For all of the other tips and suggestions, see "FROM THE MODERATORS: Posting to misc.invest.financial-plan", a weekly post now on the Newsgroup. |
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#8
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| - quote - > I really enjoy your posts, but it has been many moons since we could
Not more than a year or so ago, CDs were near 5%. Rates seem to go up> earn 4.5% risk-free "elsewhere". I suspect that most of the folks who > have been investing while running a mortgage are in a serious hole. > (I say "risk-free" to keep this apples and apples since the choice we > are discussing is investing vs. paying down/off a mortgage.) > -HW "Skip" Weldon > Columbia, SC faster than they drop. There's a (mortgage) rate where I'd agree 100% with you, but it's a bit higher, maybe 6-7% as the grey area. At 4.5% mortgage rate, 28% bracket, a return (based on 15% div and cap gain rate) of 3.81% or higher is the OP's breakeven. DVY (the iShares Dow Select Dividend ETF) is currently pushing a yield of 4.75%. If the market remains flat to down slightly for the next decade, this choice will break even for this situation. Not risk-free, but not using a long term return assumption (of 8-10%), either. Joe www.blog.joetaxpayer.com ------ Misc.invest.financial-plan is a moderated newsgroup where Moderators strive to keep the conversations on-topic for financial planning. Other posting guidelines include a request for brevity and another for trimming posts to which we respond. For all of the other tips and suggestions, see "FROM THE MODERATORS: Posting to misc.invest.financial-plan", a weekly post now on the Newsgroup. |
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#7
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| "John A. Weeks III" <john[at]johnweeks.com> writes: - quote - > I use the definition of an investment to include a tool or machine
Certainly, some people would have a very hard time earning their> purchased with capital to be used to earn a rate of return. That > includes stuff like a punch press at a factory or a roller mill > at a steel plant. In my case, and in many cases that I know of, > I sell my time to make money. If I cannot get to the jobsite, I > get no paycheck. As a result, a reliable working vehicle is an > essential tool in my manufacturing operation where I convert time > into pay. Yes, a little different way of looking at it. > My point was, investment or expense, is that you don't want to lose > a $250,000 a year job over a beater car that won't start a few times > a week, or makes you late for work on a regular basis. At the same > time, one does not need to run a late model car lot in front of > their house with a vehicle for every day of the week, and payment > books to match. Just make sure that you have one reliable car so > you don't put the big picture at risk over small change. living without a car, either because it's the nature of their job or because they have chosen to live and/or work in an area with few alternative forms of transportation available. OTOH, it's getting easier and easier for folks to get by without owning a car, as telecommuting becomes more common and car sharing services like Zipcar are catching on. Back when I got my first job out of college, I bought a new car and drove it to work even though it was easy walking distance, because I grew up in the Detroit area back in the 60's and 70's thinking that's what grown-ups did when they got jobs. It wasn't until my last "beater car" died of old age several years back that I realized that, hey, I don't really need a car anyway! I telecommute now; in my previous few jobs, even when I still owned a car, I walked or took public transportation to work. Anyway, my point here is that telling folks they need to "invest" in a reliable car is 1970's Detroit thinking. Nowadays, not every working adult really needs to own a car -- and for those who don't, a car is an unnecessary expense, not any kind of investment. Moreover, choosing to live in an area where you need to drive 10 or 20 miles to get to the places where you need to go every day seems to me to be as pointlessly over-consumptive as buying the mini-mansion or late model car lot in front of it. -Sandra the cynic ------ Misc.invest.financial-plan is a moderated newsgroup where Moderators strive to keep the conversations on-topic for financial planning. Other posting guidelines include a request for brevity and another for trimming posts to which we respond. For all of the other tips and suggestions, see "FROM THE MODERATORS: Posting to misc.invest.financial-plan", a weekly post now on the Newsgroup. |
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#6
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| In article <m3iqsgs2it.fsf[at]frogsonice.com> , Sandra Loosemore <noreply[at]frogsonice.com> wrote: - quote - > "John A. Weeks III" <john[at]johnweeks.com> writes:
I use the definition of an investment to include a tool or machine> > My personal philosophy is that folks should have a core holding > > of safe investments including at least one good car and a home > > that can be depended on. As a result, I suggest a more modest > > paid-for home as opposed to the mini-mansion that is mortgaged > > to the hilt. You never know what kind of eggs life is going to > > lay for you, and they cannot repo a paid-for house. > A car isn't an investment; it's an expense. Because of insurance and > maintenance costs, it eats money even when you're not driving it. > The same is true of owning a house. OTOH, I've found I can get by > just fine without owning a car (between walking, taking public > transportation, and using ZipCar); I'd have a harder time getting by > without having a place to live. ;-) purchased with capital to be used to earn a rate of return. That includes stuff like a punch press at a factory or a roller mill at a steel plant. In my case, and in many cases that I know of, I sell my time to make money. If I cannot get to the jobsite, I get no paycheck. As a result, a reliable working vehicle is an essential tool in my manufacturing operation where I convert time into pay. Yes, a little different way of looking at it. My point was, investment or expense, is that you don't want to lose a $250,000 a year job over a beater car that won't start a few times a week, or makes you late for work on a regular basis. At the same time, one does not need to run a late model car lot in front of their house with a vehicle for every day of the week, and payment books to match. Just make sure that you have one reliable car so you don't put the big picture at risk over small change. -john- -- ================================================== ==================== John A. Weeks III 612-720-2854 john[at]johnweeks.com Newave Communications http://www.johnweeks.com ================================================== ==================== ------ Misc.invest.financial-plan is a moderated newsgroup where Moderators strive to keep the conversations on-topic for financial planning. Other posting guidelines include a request for brevity and another for trimming posts to which we respond. For all of the other tips and suggestions, see "FROM THE MODERATORS: Posting to misc.invest.financial-plan", a weekly post now on the Newsgroup. |
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#5
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| On Sat, 27 Sep 2008 22:33:40 -0500, dapperdobbs <GeorgeCFL[at]hotmail.com> wrote: - quote - > At a 4.5% mortgage, I'd keep the mortgage in place since you can take
I really enjoy your posts, but it has been many moons since we could> full advantage of the deduction to further reduce your costs of funds > there, and since your return on capital is higher elsewhere. earn 4.5% risk-free "elsewhere". I suspect that most of the folks who have been investing while running a mortgage are in a serious hole. (I say "risk-free" to keep this apples and apples since the choice we are discussing is investing vs. paying down/off a mortgage.) -HW "Skip" Weldon Columbia, SC ------ Misc.invest.financial-plan is a moderated newsgroup where Moderators strive to keep the conversations on-topic for financial planning. Other posting guidelines include a request for brevity and another for trimming posts to which we respond. For all of the other tips and suggestions, see "FROM THE MODERATORS: Posting to misc.invest.financial-plan", a weekly post now on the Newsgroup. |
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#4
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| "John A. Weeks III" <john[at]johnweeks.com> writes: - quote - > My personal philosophy is that folks should have a core holding
A car isn't an investment; it's an expense. Because of insurance and> of safe investments including at least one good car and a home > that can be depended on. As a result, I suggest a more modest > paid-for home as opposed to the mini-mansion that is mortgaged > to the hilt. You never know what kind of eggs life is going to > lay for you, and they cannot repo a paid-for house. maintenance costs, it eats money even when you're not driving it. The same is true of owning a house. OTOH, I've found I can get by just fine without owning a car (between walking, taking public transportation, and using ZipCar); I'd have a harder time getting by without having a place to live. ;-) Anyway, yeah -- I'm certainly happier having a modest home that is 100% paid for than having to fork over huge mortgage payments on a mini-mansion every month. Housing is most people's biggest expense, and once you're free of that mortgage payment it makes a huge difference in your cash flow situation. -Sandra the cynic ------ Misc.invest.financial-plan is a moderated newsgroup where Moderators strive to keep the conversations on-topic for financial planning. Other posting guidelines include a request for brevity and another for trimming posts to which we respond. For all of the other tips and suggestions, see "FROM THE MODERATORS: Posting to misc.invest.financial-plan", a weekly post now on the Newsgroup. |
| Tags |
| analysis, critique, financial, plans |
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