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#5
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| On Sep 7, 5:13 pm, pixel_a_ted <pixel_a_...[at]yahoo.com> wrote: - quote - > I should have mentioned that I was talking about municipal bonds. I
I've started to hear rumblings that the world of munis may soon> ended up putting the money in a Vanguard LT municipal bond fund for my > state. > Thanks. change. Its purely speclation as to who the courts will side with, but its a risk nonetheless. http://quote.bloomberg.com/apps/news...d=absJcbrn_joc |
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#4
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| - quote - > You spoke of picking out "one relatively safe (insured) long
I should have mentioned that I was talking about municipal bonds. I> maturity individual bond." Corporate bonds are not generally > insured, to my knowledge. Certificate of Deposits, with some > caveats, are. Can you explain what you mean? > You spoke of ended up putting the money in a Vanguard LT municipal bond fund for my state. Thanks. |
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#3
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| "pixel_a_ted" <pixel_a_ted[at]yahoo.com> wrote - quote - > To be a little more
You want the higher yield that, most of the time, long-term> specific, I can buy into a particular long-term bond fund > for my state > that's yielding about 4.2% and has an average duration of > about 5-6 > years. I was just about to do that but then thought about > the > alternative of just buying one or maybe two really long > bonds that are > yielding about 4.8%. I guess I am basically trying to > understand why > someone would buy a 20 or 30 year bond, and whether this > might be a > particularly good or bad time to do so. investment grade bonds give, right? You should consider the following before doing so: 1. How old and how far from retirement are you? 2. The current yield curve (that is, a graph of current bond yields vs. maturity date) is highly anomalous at the moment. Most of the time in the past, the further away maturity is, the more a bond yields. 3. The dollar advantage of going out beyond about five years is so small that many feel the shorter maturity (and so quicker access) to the bonds is well worth the small loss in dollar value. For an excellent, historical and easy-to-follow depiction of this, see the interactive graph at http://www.smartmoney.com/onebond/in...urve&hpadref=1 . Here in my late 40s, with a good life expectancy, I do not go out more than about five to seven years with my bond and CD positions. 4. Weigh a bond mutual funds costs against holding several highly rated individual bonds. 5. Depending, consider a bond ladder, to give yourself more flexibility while maximizing yield. You spoke of picking out "one relatively safe (insured) long maturity individual bond." Corporate bonds are not generally insured, to my knowledge. Certificate of Deposits, with some caveats, are. Can you explain what you mean? You spoke of |
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#2
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| On Aug 31, 6:44 am, pixel_a_ted <pixel_a_...[at]yahoo.com> wrote: - quote - > I am basically trying to understand why
Two reasons come to mind:> someone would buy a 20 or 30 year bond 1. To ensure a fixed periodic payment, e.g. for annuities. Also for zero-coupon bonds, to ensure predetermined income at fixed future dates. 2. To "lock in" a presumably high interest rate, if your crystal ball tells you that the total return would be higher than the cumulative return that you might otherwise receive from shorter-term bonds as rates change over the same timeframe. That presumes that we are talking about noncallable fixed-rate bonds. - quote - > I am basically trying to understand [...] whether this
You might also consider your need, or not, for liquidity and risk> might be a particularly good or bad time to do so. tolerance of fluctuating the bond fund net asset value. I would also add a caveat about comparing taxable v. partially or wholly nontaxable interest rates. But since you said you are looking at state bond funds, I presume you are also looking at state bonds. |
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#1
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| pixel_a_ted wrote: - quote - > Me again. I just wanted to clarify my question. To be a little more
Why? Because they believe rates will either be stable or fall from where> specific, I can buy into a particular long-term bond fund for my state > that's yielding about 4.2% and has an average duration of about 5-6 > years. I was just about to do that but then thought about the > alternative of just buying one or maybe two really long bonds that are > yielding about 4.8%. I guess I am basically trying to understand why > someone would buy a 20 or 30 year bond, and whether this might be a > particularly good or bad time to do so. > Thanks again. they bought the bond or fund. Since I see CDs that yield 5.2% for 5 years, or 5.25% for 10, and don't believe rates will remain this low for long, I'd not be interested in a 20 or 30 yr bond. That's just my gut. All my cash is pretty short term. JOE |
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| Me again. I just wanted to clarify my question. To be a little more specific, I can buy into a particular long-term bond fund for my state that's yielding about 4.2% and has an average duration of about 5-6 years. I was just about to do that but then thought about the alternative of just buying one or maybe two really long bonds that are yielding about 4.8%. I guess I am basically trying to understand why someone would buy a 20 or 30 year bond, and whether this might be a particularly good or bad time to do so. Thanks again. |
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#-1
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| I want to diversify my bond holdings with some longer maturities. The amount I devote to this would be relatively small compared to the amount I currently have in 1-5 year maturities. If I were considering "junk" bonds, I certainly would go with a fund rather than pick one particular junk bond because the risk would be spread out in the fund. But for non-junk bonds, I could go with a long- term bond fund or I could pick out one relatively safe (insured) long maturity individual bond. What are the pros and cons of either approach? Thanks. |
| Tags |
| bond, question |
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