The Consortium wrote:

- quote -

This may or not be true, but my point was that Scottrade does not appear
to have inactivity fees. I've only placed two trades in my Scottrade
account (I bought shares of 2 companies when I opened the account three
years ago and I'm still holding) and I've never been charged any kind of
fee (except the commissions on the trades).

-Will

"The Consortium" wrote
- quote -

Because I did read your post and saw that you wrote, among
other things: "I'm taking 5000 to 7000 dollars out of my
business and attempting to grow a house-farm downpayment
from this."

snip
- quote -

I mean do as I said: Do not put money into stocks when you
expect to need it in less than about fifteen years. Or, if
you insist on putting money you may need in the short term
into stocks, you should be prepared to have less money than
that with which you started.

That you'll have less money is not guaranteed. But it is
conventional wisdom not to expect that the average annual
return of some 10% in stocks is not guaranteed every year.
In fact, if you paid any attention in that finance course
you took, you might note that in many years, and over many
short periods, stocks have had a negative return.

Regardless, you simply asked how to go about buying stocks.
Carreiro answered, though I suspect assuming you are in the
U.S. All bets are off now that you've made clear you're in
Canada. I suggest you find a stock investing group with a
larger Canadian presence.

Good luck.

"Elle" <honda.lioness[at]nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:gidvg.1220$bP5.169[at]newsread1.news.pas.earthlink.net...
- quote -

You didn't read my posts at all. I don't want stock tips. I don't want
life tips. I asked how does one buy stocks and what are the commissions
and fees like and are they negotiable.

I said I had 6 months take home pay which is $14 970 dollars ( I stated my
yearly salary was $40 000 before taxes)

So right away you are trying to give me advice without reading my post. I
stated 6 take home months pay. Why did you only say I have 5 to 7000? in
savings?

Second I said I saved 12 500 in case my father needs it. I will not be
risking and I "pretend" this fund does not exist. However in the future
this money will be available back to me and I stated the reasons why.

I am almost complete saving for the marriage fund. It stands at about 4200
right now. Hey she is saving too which means 10 000 dollar wedding.

I also stated I can save up to 65% percent of my pay but currently only save
35% of my pay. 35% percent of 40 000 is $14000 before taxes and 65% is
26000 per year. Every week my savings grow by 220 dollars and can grow
double that if I so choose. I dare anyone to even number crunch their way
to a 65% savings rate on their income. What percentages of North Americans
can do this.


I also stated I have 1 year's worth of food saved up. let's say that's
another $3000 dollars.

Might as well clear the air. No debts none zilch. The only bill I pay is
My rent which includes cable, internet phone heat a/c and water.



- quote -

In my first post I told you I was savvy on information and news
- quote -

So you mean keep investing in the same investments I have now? Are you
aware of deposit rates and taxes in Canada? With current inflation and my
marginal tax rates My return of 5% in a cash account will be .06%. That's
assuming there are any cash accounts at 5% in Canada. If you know of any
share. Did I mention my marginal tax rate?

But don't take advantage of the much lower taxes on capital gains or
dividends the Canadian taxman will offer you. Let's put ALL my eggs in the
highest taxable forms of investment and let's get inflation chipping away at
that to. I also talked about corporate bonds in another post but you
didn't read that I assume.


- quote -

I walk away from this city by 2009. Will I hold onto my share in the
business or will my partner buy me out I don't know, but my personal
involvment ends in 2009 as that's the year i leave the big city. Do we
start a second location where i settle down? I hope not unless it's last
resort.



- quote -

I have been using spreadsheets for a number of years perhaps 6 or 7 but
thanks for that advice. Give me a second and I'll tell you the sales tax I
paid at Costco on July 18 2002.

Sorry for no spell checking. You sound like my mother.

"Will Trice" <wwtrice[at]paragondynamics.com> wrote in message
news:44BD7977.9000309[at]paragondynamics.com...
- quote -

Yes I have begun to find out That the amount I wanted to play with is not
great enough esp. if my total equity were to drop which is the risk. that's
when the account maintence fees and inactivity fees kick in. I wish to risk
but I don't think I will be prepared to risk enough avoid the higher fees.
Inactivity with an online brokerage firm will sting. I think for a buy and
hold plan a real broker is the way to go in my case. I could wait one
year and risk double what I planned for now.

I have alot of books on how to make yourself a millionaire and all that
common sense financial stuff. Valuable information. it's how I learned to
budget a number of years ago. using a 28 day budget instead of a monthly
budget, tips on saving raises, how to analyze spending, how to save for
emergencies.

I will look for a beginner's online trading book. Good suggestion. Reading
got me alot of knowledge to date. Reading is my favourite hobby next to my
family tree work. perhaps they be be found used on amazon or ebay or maybe
I should get the 2006 edition (or do they have 2007 out now).

rick++ wrote:

- quote -

I don't think the concept of lots is still in effect at most online
brokerages. It certainly isn't at Scottrade. For the OP, I mention
Scottrade because they do not have an account minimum, charge no
maintenance fees, and have $7 commissions. Even so, I like E-Trade
better, but they do have hefty fees for total assets (across all your
linked E-Trade accounts) under $10k and largish commissions for total
assets under $50k.

I saw a book last night that might have what you're looking for:
"Investing Online for Dummies". I didn't really look through it much so
I can't really recommend it, but I do have other "Dummies" books that
I've been happy with.

Good luck,
-Will

Consortium,

This is a financial planning newsgroup. It tries to help
consumers with the 'big picture' of their investing lives. I
am responding with this in mind. If your interest is
strictly how to put money into stocks, you can also ask your
question at misc.invest.stocks, among other online stock
fora. Folks at these sites will also give you stock tips
galore. Otherwise, disregard the following as you see fit.
It is for lurkers wondering about the prudence of stock
investing for the short term.

The biggest issue is whether you are investing for the short
term or long term. Your goals do appear to be very short
term, like saving for a house downpayment ($30k or so), a
wedding ($5k or so), and future kids' savings funds (about
$15k total).

You say you have some savings ($5k-7k or so) and some
business income and maybe some other sources (emergency
money earmarked for your dad) to get the house downpayment
up to $30k or so. You say you want to use the stock market
for a period of around 2.5 years (now to 2009).

Stocks are too risky for such a short period of time. Over a
few years, you could easily end up with less than you put
into this savings. Be aware that a number of sharp people
often quoted in the media argue that stocks are currently
overvalued and could stand some "correction" ( = a decline
in stock prices).

With the exception of the portion you intend for your kids'
savings, put this money you'll need in a few years for the
house downpayment etc. into a CD ladder, a high yield money
market account, or indivual high grade corporate bonds.
Especially when you cannot be certain about what the future
holds for your business, low risk vehicles are preferred.
The better news is that you should be able to get a 5.5%
yield pretty easily for the next few years, at least using
U.S. vehicles. That's not bad at all, given that it's a near
certainty you'll get that yield.

Lastly, I strongly recommend numerically organizing your
financial goals on a spreadsheet.

Good luck.

"rick++" <rick303[at]hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:1153233491.911902.54340[at]s13g2000cwa.googlegroups.com...
- quote -

It's not 5000 to 30000 in 2.5 to 3.5 years as I stated in a previous post:

It's 5000 + 100 per month + 12 500 to 30 000 in 2.5 to 3.5 years. The
money I had set aside for my father may not have to be used as I already
stated with his mother being very close to the end. this is a development
that has occurred in the last four months which is why i stopped saving
towards this fund. If it has to be used in the next 2 or 3 years before the
execution of the will, my father will "hopefully" repay me. He is a
property rich and cash poor type of farmer. And before you assume we are in
the USA we are not and inheritance taxes and death taxes are much simplier
and straightforward in this country.

Doing the math it's approx 20 500 to 30 000 in 2.5 years and I already
stated I can up that 100 per month contribution significantly. Only 5000
of the 20 500 is goping into the markets.


- quote -

The online brokerages I spoke too seem to want 5000 but that is not good
enough because if your total equity with those firms drops below 5000 then
addtional fees kick in. I will have to consider 8000 to 10 000 to get good
rates with the firms I spoke too.

- quote -

I could live with a 4.5% return because of the tax laws here but 7% is
alright with me as GIC's and term deposits are paying about 4.75% for a 3
year term and that interest is charged at my FULL marginal tax rate.
capital gains on funds and stock are calculated at much lower rates as are
dividends. I am going to revisit mutual fund buying as I have learned that
online brokerages I spoke with charge little or no commissions to buy and
sell these funds rather take an additional .5% on the MER. Time to hit the
papers for the last few months or perhaps buy these from a full service
broker who can guide me in mutual funds and what they do in holdings. 2 to
3 years is risky to get get a 7% return but I can't LOSE if it's under 4%
return because of the tax differences.

I appreciate the ideas. Food for thought!

"HW "Skip" Weldon" <skip5700removethis[at]hotmail.com> wrote in message
news:8iupb2ddo37itp5cotmps5fbqtuchih0sj[at]4ax.com...
- quote -

That's right nobody here knows me well. The only reason I started the
business is I got a small inheritance from my mother and I am a high school
drop out from age 14. It was my one shot to earn a decent wage. As stated
in the post I said I live in a large city and I will be moving to the rural
country and most likely a different time zone.

I went in with another co-worker at a former shop and we formed a numbered
company limited partnership. He has the salesmanship and quick toothy grin,
I know the weld processing, metallurgy, and designed all the jigs for our
applications. I do hold patents on two of those jigs but I doubt that means
much. I will be moving away from where my business is. I will not be
involved in welding at that point as I have no intentions of being employed
at my own company and will most likely sell-out. In 3 years I will most
likely have nothing to do with a business I helped create accept receive a
once a year cheque. I am successful in a profession I dislike.

But I didn't ask to have my goals scrutinized, I wanted to know the process
of buying stocks from the average Joe who has done it.

On Tue, 18 Jul 2006 04:05:21 -0500, "The Consortium"
<just_outside[at]your_front_door.net.easynews.com> wrote:

- quote -

Nobody here knows you very well, so feel free to disregard the
following if you don't think it applies.

1. Most successful business people - particularly those whose
business is in its infancy - consider that investing in their business
is their best investment opportunity. After all, they say, if
something is more profitable than their business, then what the heck
are they doing?

2. Your best shot at investment success is:

a. in a field you understand, and
b. in a field in which you have an "edge", or gift, and
c. in a field to which you can affect the outcome.

... which for most business people means their business is their
best shot at success. Do well there and everything else will come.
My experience is that I have never met anyone that I would consider
"successful" who was not FIRST successful in their profession.

In other words, quit messing around here and focus on your business.
Later, when the business is to a point where you can turn it over to
subordinates, then you can try to do something else.



-HW "Skip" Weldon
Columbia, SC

Hmm. 5,000 to 30,000 in 2.5 years. Thats a little ambitious.
7,500 would beat most investors because that would about 20% increase
per year.

You can open acount on the web with any name brokerage in less than a
half hour.
Trading commissions are minimized trading in multiples of $100. With
stocks
averaging about $25 a share that would be about $2500 per lot.
The conventional wisdom is to minimize risk your should hold around ten
different
stocks, or have about $25,000 to invest. In fact this amount is often
the required
minimum for certain types of advanced trading at brokerages.

People with smaller bank accounts are advised to start stocks via
mutual funds.
They internally hold several dozen to several hundred positions to
minimize risk.
Some have trading overhheads of a tenth of a percent, far less than a
low end investor
can achieve. But the returns are stodgy. In the long term they are
annually 7-10%,
and havent done that well in the 21st century. Of course you only see
the super winners
getting 30%, 50% advertised and not the losers that cut your savings in
half.

"Elle" <honda.lioness[at]nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:PHUug.5742$vO.2636[at]newsread4.news.pas.earthlink.net...
- quote -

Yes I did answer the question but I will share my goals life and financial
publicly:
I didn't share them because they may differ dramatically from most others.

First of all I rent with my girlfriend in Toronto Canada. I am 30 and
self-employed she is 29 and is a teacher.

My first goal was to save 6 months take home pay and 1 year worth of food
and toiletries. this goal was accomplished.

My second goal was to save $15 000 for my disabled father in case he needs
emergency surgery. Alot but not all his health care costs will be funded
by the federal government so I saved the money for his needs. His mother is
close to death and his inheritance is about 100 000. I stopped saving about
$12 500 but all interest earned from my emergency pay and this health fund
will top it up at the expense of taxes and inflation.

My third goal was to Drive my own small business to $1 000 000 in revenue
by June 30th 2009. Right now I pay myself $40 000 a year and my cash flow
seems stable and about 4 months windows. At this point my business money is
separate from my personal wealth. In case of legal reasons I sure
hope I can find cheap labour. Employment taxes are awful on the bottom
line

To move to a rural house / farm by jun 2008 or 2009. I will not live in a
town or city ever again. the largest town I will live in will have will
have a population of 25 or less. I have stated this to my girlfriend.
Since she is a catholic She agreed to move to a farm provided they have
access to catholic schools. She will be the first farm girl in her family
and My kids will be the first Catholics in our family and at least the close
members of my family seem to accept this. We seem content on this idea as I
have taken her to my father's farms frequently. However I will sacrifice my
relationship with this wonderful woman I have been with for 3 years to date
to live on a farm if she decides the rural life is not for her.

I would like to raise two children but will save for three. My goal is to
start each child off with $5000 in their name. I'll start after this next
goal is done

I am in the process of saving $5000 for a marriage and should have this
complete this fall or august if I am good. . Maybe we get married this
year or maybe not. it's her thing not mine. I would prefer not to get
legally married until my business smoothes out.

I have not begun to save for a house downpayment but I can save up to 65% of
my pay when the time approaches. currently I save 25% of my pay. I plan
on saving 35% this fall and 20% of that will be invested into the markets.
If business goes well I can give myself a raise or expand sales. If
business fails at least I am partially shielded. I prefer 100 acres or more
but will settle for 50. better to have 2 outbuildings but I would like 4 or
5.

- quote -

I believe I understand my goals for the next 3 to 5 years quite clearly and
certainly I feel like I have alot on my plate. I work long hard hours to
realize my dreams.
- quote -

Obviously I picked the wrong ones to follow. I picked balanced 60-40
stock-bond types with 50% in Canada and other that were foreign based to
diversify from Canadian only funds. i delibertly picked foreign funds that
had no more than 50% exposure to the US. becasue the rate increase
uncertainy in Canada Bonds seem down. Also the corporate bonds i chose to
follow didn't offer yeilds I thought they would. Two major reatilers I
thought would expand found funding sources other than bonds to finance their
aggressive moves.
- quote -

I think that's an unfair comment. I simply asked how does one invest in
the market not scrutinize my life. I haven't lost sleep on business loans
yet even when the first year when at one point my business bank account was
down to 126 dollars. Petty cash was worth more. Thank god I had 8 months
worth of food saved up. I risked bankruptcy to create my own job. Believe
me losing a small portion of cash in the stock market will not create ulcers
like your first year of running your own company.

I won't lose sleep by investing 8 or 9% of my paycheque saving in the
market. It has taken me a year to come to the conclusion to increase the
risk on my personal investments. it was spring of 2005 when I took a
personal investing course 101 to learn about the markets. I'm not jumping
in willy-nilly. I'm taking 5000 to 7000 dollars out of my business and
attempting to grow a house-farm downpayment from this. of course I will
contribute to a house downpayment fund with guaranteed savings but that may
not happen till summer 2007. I would like this down payment fund to be 30
000 by the time Jan 1 2009 comes around. It's gonna be tough I think. If
dad doesn't use the money i set aside for him then I will have a 12 500 or
more head start. Cross my fingers.

All I wanted to know was how does one actually start buying stocks and
funds. of coarse the first time is a plunge!!! when is it not a plunge
the first time? Besides why shouldn't one enjoy investing? I already
spend 4% of my income on cigarettes. Investing in the stock market has to
be a wiser move than buying cigarettes.

"The Consortium"
- quote -


You did not answer the question.

It is impossible to give meaningful financial planning
advice without knowing your goals. That you don't understand
that strongly suggests to me that either (1) you have money
to throw away on bad investment choices or (2) you are not
ready to buy stocks.

- quote -

There happens to be plenty of data on mutual funds available
at your finger tips. I don't know why you paper tracked just
a few funds. But it's still meaningless to comment here
without at least knowing whether you're investing for the
long term (10 years or more, say) or the short term (a few
years, say).

You sound like you want to just take the plunge into owning
stocks, on some guesses about certain companies, to "enjoy
investing in the market." As long as you're prepared to lose
money, that's fine.

Good luck.

"Elle" <honda.lioness[at]nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:FIEug.975$157.166[at]newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net...
- quote -

I know what 401(k) and Roths are. Since I am not American or live in the
USA those investment tools are non-applicable and are just passing mentions
in internet ads. My own government has schemes to save money and grow
investments under shelters however I will not be taking advantage of those
loopholes as My income is close to the lower marginal tax rates. I will
pay all tax penalties up front. I am my own employer so no my employer
will not be offering any investment matching or top ups. If my income grows
in the future I will reconsider these government sponsored schemes as they
have many advantages to middle and upper income tax brackets.

I have clearly defined life and financial goals. Some of these goals have
been met others are in phase. Investing higher risk is to attempt to meet
one of these goals and used to grow money set-aside from another goal.
these goals are not top of list priority which is why I am willing to risk a
certain portion of money to meet and expand those goals.

- quote -

2 of the companies are based on dividends. One company pays a premium
dividend on it's preferred stock and the other is a 70 year old corporation
that just reports consistent revenues.

The third company is a take-over target because it's seen as weak because of
lawsuits however I believe that it's lawsuits have been settled, no-more
class-actions have been filed so this company in the financial services
sector will return to profitably. They are seen as the smallest of the big
fish but I doubt. either way takeover target or return to profitably is in
it's future. If it is not taken over within the next 12 to 18 months it's
profitability will up it's stock value.

Another company is down on it's luck with strikes for 5 weeks but those
strikes may be over this summer. This strike prone company should get a
good agreement on labour collective bargaining for the next 4 years. they
are announcing a major expansion at the same time. I consider this stock to
be a value as I see the labour peace and the expansion as a move to boost
revenues and profits, however their dividend is low.

A fifth company is of sentimental value in my industry and is there to get
my feet wet and enjoy investing in the market.

All my picks are buy and hold and I know the dollar values I would like to
have. I have "paper tracked" these stocks for about 6 months I think now.
These 5 were narrowed down from about 30.



It seems these online brokerages charge hefty fees for little trading
activity. I will have to reconsider how much money I wish to risk because
of the fees and taxes. I will try to ween better cash account inactivity
fees from the online brokers. I am buying and holding and I doubt I will
use limit and buy market.


I have considered mutual funds however the mutual funds I choose to paper
track have all been underperforming their average 5 year return this year,
some quite badly underperforming.

"Rich Carreiro" <rlcarr[at]animato.arlington.ma.us> wrote in message
news:m3r70kx5q5.fsf[at]animato.home.lan...
- quote -

I have some of these books but I am in some major projects at moment so will
not be able to free time until the end of summer. I took some college
courses on personal investing last year so many of terms are familiar with
me. I prolly will not purchase any of these securities until the fall but I
am just collecting information. I will probably only do market orders as I
plan on buying and holding. I have calculated the cost and what-ifs on
limit orders so I am cognizant of that option but I figured that is a tool
for more active traders. I do not plan on margin accounts. I will be using
10% of the cash I have saved to date to start and 25% of my current savings
rates for stock market investing.


Where I was confused is how to a get my first toe wet. In the spring I
spoke with two separate investment planners and I left confused. The one
guy in particular was fascinated with my rate of savings on my take-home pay
and kept harassing me a few weeks on the phone to at least open a cash
account and to come back.

The other guy wanted me to save less and to invest a higher percentage of my
income into less than guaranteed investments. He seemed to suggest he knew
more about my personal money situation i.e. what I should spend on food and
beer and toys and clothes then I did. I simply told him that comfort level
was important to me and that I also wanted to enjoy investing. I worked
hard to earn my savings and I wished to enjoy stock and mutual fund share
ownership even if I would possibly lose and could do so. He tried to whip
me into excitement over a few mutual funds that I did not feel comfortable
holding for a variety of reasons.

Maybe that is how the industry works I guess.

"704set" <704set[at]anywhereyouwant.com> wrote
E
- quote -


I certainly see your point but nonetheless think there are
very good lessons that come from paper trading exercises.
For example, several years ago I was watching one of those
popular contests, run by the reporters of a national
newspaper, where people submit a stock they think will do
well in the next year. The series reported on past contests
and how dart throwing did as well. Dart throwing would do as
well as the collective picks. Of course someone had to win,
but some folks took huge paper losses. This gave me pause. I
still recommend this over even putting small quantities into
the market as a way to get an education in stocks.

Of course, there are middle roads. If newbies read enough to
know that older, larger, dividend paying companies, with
positive earnings and earnings growth over the last ten
years, tend to be more stable, they could start with one of
these and reduce the chances of a bad experience. These
companies are not sexy... until one contemplates the long
term performance.

On Sun, 16 Jul 2006 19:37:28 -0500, The Consortium <just_outside[at]your_front_door.net.easynews.com> wrote:
- quote -

You would open an account with an online brokerage. Then you would
send them the money to fund the account. When the money is properly
deposited, they would show a balance for you. You would then be able
to create buy or sell orders, that would result in trades. Brokerages
typically charge you a set amount per trade.

- quote -

You would send an order to buy 100 shares of that stock with the limit
of say, $20 (meaning that you do not want the shares if they are
available for more than $20).

- quote -


you would send 5 orders, and typically pay commissions 5 times.

- quote -

I never used advisors myself, but people can use them. Cannot give any
meaningful advice here. But they will cost you regardless of how
exactly they get paid (ie there is no such thing as free financial
advice).

- quote -

That's a good thing.

i

"Elle" <honda.lioness[at]nospam.earthlink.net> wrote in message
news:FIEug.975$157.166[at]newsread3.news.pas.earthlink.net...
- quote -

I never thought paper trading was very effective because the one main
ingredient that is missing is emotion. Greed and fear does not come into
play. In fact, a person who paper trades may do very well because these
emotions are missing. Thus, he may think he actually knows what he is doing
and thus take on more risk than he should.

I think the best way is to jump right into the market - but in very small
increments. Thus you will immediately get the "feel" of being in the
market. Oh yea, did I mention small increments? Even small odd lots if
necessary. It may be expensive commission wise, but in the longer run it
will be cheaper.

704set


======================================= MODERATOR'S COMMENT:
Please trim the post to which you are responding. "Trim" means that except for a few lines to add context, the previous post is deleted.

What is wrong with mutual funds?

I strongly recommend them for someone new to investing in
the stock market. Get a few years with mutual funds under
your belt, then consider individual stocks. Naturally you'll
continue reading and studying what stocks, mutual funds,
etc. are all about during this time. You should "paper
trade" (that is, don't actually buy them but instead make up
a pretend portfolio of them and track them) the stocks you
like right now and compare them to a diverse allocation of
mutual funds consistent with your age and risk tolerance for
the next few years.

Do you understand the advantages of a diverse portfolio? An
introduction to asset allocation may be had via
experimenting with the free online tools I list at
http://home.earthlink.net/~elle_navorski/id8.html . It would
take you maybe a weekend to get a handle on the basic idea
of allocation.

As importantly, what are your investing goals? E.g. are you
saving for retirement? A new car? A house? Do you know what
a 401(k) is, and does your employer offer one? Do you know
the merits of a Roth IRA?

What criteria did you use exactly to select the five
companies you mention below?

Carreiro's suggestons are right on, though I'd add that the
basic definitions he suggests you get from some books may be
found through careful searches on the internet.
www.investopedia.com 's dictionary is very helpful for many
of these.

"The Consortium"
<just_outside[at]your_front_door.net.easynews.comsnip
- quote -

The Consortium wrote:
- quote -

A common way is to open an account with an online discount brokerages,
such as ScottTrade, eTrade, TD Ameritrade, Fidelity, among others.
Commissions for online discount brokerages range between about $7-20.

"The Consortium" <just_outside[at]your_front_door.net.easynews.com> writes:

- quote -

Open an account with a broker who has an internet presence, log in to
the website, and enter your trades.

- quote -

Depending on the broker and the assets you have with the broker,
probably anywhere from $5 to $30 *per trade* for trades placed online.
Trades placed by calling a human will usually carry significantly
higher commissions.

- quote -

You'd make sure you had $2000+ on deposit at the broker, and enter an
order to buy 100sh of the stock (possibly using a limit order if you
choose).

- quote -

Generally you'd have to enter five separate trades and so pay five
separate commissions.


Having said all that, I strongly recommend you do some reading on the
nuts and bolts of placing buy and sell orders. I'm not talking about
reading about "trading systems". I'm talking about basic "So, you've
opened an account with a broker, now what?"-type books that explain
the basis of stock orders (i.e. what's a market order, what's a limit
order, what's an "ex-dividend date", what's margin, etc., etc.)

--
Rich Carreiro rlcarr[at]animato.arlington.ma.us