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| "John Radgosky" <jradgosky[at]yahoo.com> writes: - quote - > Before trying to decide which "tactic" you should employ with the spare
Well, maybe baby boomers in general are living longer, but it's by no> dollars, it's important to first establish what your "goal" or > "objective" is. Then you determine an overall "strategy", and then the > specific "tactic" is easy to decide and seems to just fall in place. > [snip] > And you need to plan for a long horizon. We are living longer, and one > of the problems baby boomers will face is how to make their capital > base last long enough. means certain that I will. :-P Last year I went through a serious illness and for a while I didn't even know if I was going to make it this long. I'd go crazy if I spent time worrying about what the future might bring; about all I can do is plan to keep working as long as I'm healthy and sock away as much money as I can. I'm not even sure "retirement", as such, is a particular goal any more, because I found that having useful work to do during my illness helped keep me sane. - quote - > Part of such an exercise would include an evaluation of all your
One thing I did do right away when I was diagnosed last year was put> assets/liabilities to decide a liquidation strategy. And if you have > any goals for "legacy" or "charitable giving" you will benefit from a > basic estate needs analysis as part of a study to determine where you > might invest. together an estate plan and a will. I have no dependents or immediate family, so it's all going to a charity by default, but it's not like maximizing the amount left over is a specific goal. OTOH, I have been trying to simplify and organize my finances so that I don't leave things in a big mess for my executor to have to straighten out. -Sandra |
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#3
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| Hello Sandra, All too often we are tempted to jump into action because of some extra money becoming suddenly available. I urge more caution and to first invest some time to establish and overall plan for your self and your future. Before trying to decide which "tactic" you should employ with the spare dollars, it's important to first establish what your "goal" or "objective" is. Then you determine an overall "strategy", and then the specific "tactic" is easy to decide and seems to just fall in place. For example, if your goal is retirement income, what you must first determine is just how much after tax income you want each month to give you the life style you want for yourself. And you need to include the impact of taxes and inflation. Then you have to see how much capital base you can expect from your current tactics so far, and whether there is a short fall or not. And you need to plan for a long horizon. We are living longer, and one of the problems baby boomers will face is how to make their capital base last long enough. And you also need to tak into account the risks such as the impact and likelihood of long term care and health care costs in general in your plan. Only after measuring these type of needs, measuring the shortfall, if any, should you then look for which tactic to employ. Part of such an exercise would include an evaluation of all your assets/liabilities to decide a liquidation strategy. And if you have any goals for "legacy" or "charitable giving" you will benefit from a basic estate needs analysis as part of a study to determine where you might invest. And keep it simple. We use money for only 3 things. We spend, save, or invest. That's it. And in working out your goals and strategies, you will then discover whether the spare dollars should be saved, or invested. The difference being, invested dollars can go up OR down over time. Saved dollars should not. And if one of your goals was to be conservative with the spare dollars then you might end up looking at things like annuities for example. And I am only saying that to illustrate an example. I would resist the urge to just suggest what to do with your money. I would rather set out an overall plan. And I assume you do not have one, otherwise you would know exactly what to do with the money you are talking about. This is probably not the kind of answer you were looking for. It's got no pezaz or razzle dazzle. And that's why I feel it makes total sense and more cents over time. HTH John Radgosky Fort Lauderdale, Fl |
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#2
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| Mark Freeland <nNeEwTs[at]sonic.net> writes: - quote - > Sandra Loosemore wrote:
Except for this, assuming, say, a 20% tax rate:> > > At this point, people like to recommend that you max out a > > Roth IRA before you do anything else.... but would it make more sense > > to use the money to pay the taxes on a Roth conversion on an existing > > traditional IRA instead? > It doesn't make a difference. For example, suppose you have $100 in a > traditional IRA, you are in the 25% tax bracket, and you have $28 in a > taxable account (just enough to cover the taxes on the conversion). > Suppose also that after n years, your investment doubles. > Case 1) You put the $25 into a Roth, and don't convert. > After n years, you have $50 in the Roth, $200 in the traditional IRA. > You closeout the IRAs, and use the $50 from the Roth (tax free) to pay > the now-$56 tax bill on the traditional IRA. That leaves you with $200. > Case 2) You convert the traditional IRA to a Roth, paying the $25 in > taxes. That leaves you with $100 in the Roth. After n years, the money > doubles, and you have $200 available tax free. Same as in case 1. > It comes out the same because either way, what you are doing is moving > the tax money into a Roth IRA (either explicitly, in case 2, or > implicitly, in case 1 by prepaying the taxes). if you have $10k in a traditional IRA and another $2k in a taxable acct, when you make the conversion, you'll owe taxes on that $10k. You can pay those taxes with the $2k you have outside the IRA. Effectively, you've put another $2k into your IRA. The Roth lets you invest a greater amount of money in a tax preferred manner. For a given amount of pre-tax money, the performance of a Roth is identical to the performance of a regular IRA. The differences are (a) whether taxes go up or down; and (b) - the bigger one - the fact that you can protect a greater amount of money this way. If you have to pay the taxes from the converted money, the math makes it identical (assuming same rate of return and same tax rates). But if you have outside money available, you come out ahead by effectively converting some of that outside money into retirement account money. - quote - > What I have done is convert just enough to keep me in a particular tax
If she's just on the verge of going above the Roth threshold> bracket. Using the 28% tax bracket as an example, if married filing > jointly, one could bring one's ordinary income up to $182,800 (using (she mentioned that next year she probably won't be able to contribute or convert to a Roth), then presumably her taxable income is on the order of $90k. In both 2005 and 2006, that puts her smack dab in the middle of the 28% bracket and 50-60 thousand short of hitting the 33% bracket ($150 or $154k). That's a lot of room to make conversions. -- Plain Bread alone for e-mail, thanks. The rest gets trashed. No HTML in E-Mail! -- http://www.expita.com/nomime.html Are you posting responses that are easy for others to follow? http://www.greenend.org.uk/rjk/2000/06/14/quoting |
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#1
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| Sandra Loosemore <sandra[at]frogsonice.com> writes: - quote - > OK, suppose I have some extra money on my hands. My mortgage is paid
If you assume tax rates do not change, and that the rates> off and I'm contributing enough to my 401(k) to get the full employer > match. At this point, people like to recommend that you max out a > Roth IRA before you do anything else.... but would it make more sense > to use the money to pay the taxes on a Roth conversion on an existing > traditional IRA instead? Is doing a Roth conversion such a winning > idea that I should also roll over my 401(k) plans from previous > employers into an IRA and convert them as well, and pull money out of > my existing taxable investment account to pay the taxes? Or is it of return on your investments are the same along the way, the end result from a Roth is identical to that of a regular IRA for a given amount of available (pre-tax) capital. What a Roth does is allow you to protect more pre-tax capital. If your tax rate is 20% and you put $10k into a Roth, it's the same as if you'd put $12.5k into a traditional IRA. - quote - > the home equity and my emergency fund, right now I have about 15% of
Frankly, I'd max out the 401k *and* make a contribution to> my investments in the traditional IRA, 25% in the 401(k) plans, and > 60% in my taxable investment account. a Roth (if you're eligible). I probably wouldn't worry about making the conversion right now unless you happen to be in a particularly low tax bracket this year (ie. due to being out of a job or something). - quote - > If it makes a difference, I'm 46, and this may be the last year my
I wouldn't worry about it. And if your income is on the> income is low enough to qualify to do a conversion for a while. upswing, simply max out all of your available tax-preferred accounts (Roth, 401k, etc). - quote - > From your numbers posted (60% taxable, 15% IRA, 25% 401k),
the conversion of the IRA *and* make a Roth contributionit looks like you have enough money to pay the taxes on as well. The more of your money you can convert from the taxable accounts into IRA accounts, the better. It'd help a little to know what kinds of numbers we're talking about here, though - if you've got a million bucks tied up in these accounts, it's a different story than if you've got $100k tied up in them. At a glance, though, unless you need all of that 60% easily accessible, use a bit of it (it'd be no more than 3 or 4%) to pay the taxes on the conversion of the IRA to a Roth. Then, assuming that adding another $4k won't take a huge bite out of that 60%, toss that $4k into the Roth, too. -- Plain Bread alone for e-mail, thanks. The rest gets trashed. No HTML in E-Mail! -- http://www.expita.com/nomime.html Are you posting responses that are easy for others to follow? http://www.greenend.org.uk/rjk/2000/06/14/quoting |
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| Sandra Loosemore wrote: - quote - > At this point, people like to recommend that you max out a
It doesn't make a difference. For example, suppose you have $100 in a> Roth IRA before you do anything else.... but would it make more sense > to use the money to pay the taxes on a Roth conversion on an existing > traditional IRA instead? traditional IRA, you are in the 25% tax bracket, and you have $28 in a taxable account (just enough to cover the taxes on the conversion). Suppose also that after n years, your investment doubles. Case 1) You put the $25 into a Roth, and don't convert. After n years, you have $50 in the Roth, $200 in the traditional IRA. You closeout the IRAs, and use the $50 from the Roth (tax free) to pay the now-$56 tax bill on the traditional IRA. That leaves you with $200. Case 2) You convert the traditional IRA to a Roth, paying the $25 in taxes. That leaves you with $100 in the Roth. After n years, the money doubles, and you have $200 available tax free. Same as in case 1. It comes out the same because either way, what you are doing is moving the tax money into a Roth IRA (either explicitly, in case 2, or implicitly, in case 1 by prepaying the taxes). - quote - > Is doing a Roth conversion such a winning
What I have done is convert just enough to keep me in a particular tax> idea that I should also roll over my 401(k) plans from previous > employers into an IRA and convert them as well, and pull money out of > my existing taxable investment account to pay the taxes? bracket. Using the 28% tax bracket as an example, if married filing jointly, one could bring one's ordinary income up to $182,800 (using 2005's brackets) without jumping into the 33% tax bracket. http://www.irs.gov/pub/irs-pdf/i1040tt.pdf (See schedule Y-1 on the last page.) Some notes here: We are talking strictly about ordinary income here; qualified dividends and capital gains don't go into the tax bracket calculations (they are taxed separately, typically at 15%). But, the higher your income (whether due to the conversion, or capital gains, or ordinary income, or whatever), the more likely you are to fall into AMT, and you have to look at those figures too. (You'll also see phaseouts of exemptions and deductions, which can raise your effective tax rate a few percentage points above the nominal 25% or 28%.) - quote - > Or is it
That's one theory. Another is that if you prepay taxes (i.e. convert to> better to hedge one's bets about which way tax rates might go in the > future by keeping that part of my money where it is now? or fund a Roth) then you *are* hedging your bets, because you are no longer subject to the vagaries of tax laws. This assumes that the law will never be changed to tax Roths. Personally, I consider that a safe assumption; others are more paranoid. And speaking of paranoid, I expect tax rates to increase in the future - too large a deficit, an aging population, etc. So to the extent that one places bets, I'm personally placing bets this way. (Tax rates are lower than they've been for decades; I won't complain if I've bet the wrong way, and rates go lower.) - quote - > Excluding
Sounds like you have a good amount that you could afford to move into> the home equity and my emergency fund, right now I have about 15% of > my investments in the traditional IRA, 25% in the 401(k) plans, and > 60% in my taxable investment account. sheltered accounts (though of course I don't know how big your whole portfolio is, and I'm not asking). - quote - > If it makes a difference, I'm 46, and this may be the last year my
Don't overdo it. You might tolerate a jump from 25% to 28%, but going> income is low enough to qualify to do a conversion for a while. to 33% is a lot of extra taxes. This is where you need to start guessing about future tax rates. -- Mark Freeland nNeEwTs[at]sonic.net |
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#-1
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| OK, suppose I have some extra money on my hands. My mortgage is paid off and I'm contributing enough to my 401(k) to get the full employer match. At this point, people like to recommend that you max out a Roth IRA before you do anything else.... but would it make more sense to use the money to pay the taxes on a Roth conversion on an existing traditional IRA instead? Is doing a Roth conversion such a winning idea that I should also roll over my 401(k) plans from previous employers into an IRA and convert them as well, and pull money out of my existing taxable investment account to pay the taxes? Or is it better to hedge one's bets about which way tax rates might go in the future by keeping that part of my money where it is now? Excluding the home equity and my emergency fund, right now I have about 15% of my investments in the traditional IRA, 25% in the 401(k) plans, and 60% in my taxable investment account. If it makes a difference, I'm 46, and this may be the last year my income is low enough to qualify to do a conversion for a while. -Sandra |
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