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#5
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| Spoca2005, The ARM aspect of the mortgage didn't really sink in until I read your latest post. Avoid at all costs messing with ARMs for any long-term period. I would even seriously consider lowering the amount in Part (A) to assist paying off this mortgage. I explain below. If, after the mortgage is paid off, you then want to give money to relatives, then you will have more freedom to so do. Until then, you are taking some risk. I am going to continue breaking down this discussion into two parts. Doing so still makes sense to me. You can easily adjust the allocations between Part (A) and (B) as you see fit. Part (A) Since the $40k apparently must remain quite liquid, then I agree with your original suggestion of a bond/CD ladder, but again, going out no more than about 2.5 years, and with rungs maybe as little as three months apart. The rungs should probably be no more than six months apart, for the needs you describe. I trust you know how to set a ladder up. In the alternative, I think a good money market mutual fund would be fine right now as well. The U.S. has this fairly flat yield curve inversion in place now, so it's hard to say which option would be better. We are probably talking only a small difference over a few year period, anyway. I trust you understand that any judgment of how you choose to use this windfall money with your family is really out of line. Seems to me some families are close like yours, mixing emotion and finances, with care and as importantly, with a view to raising the net worth and peace of mind of the whole family enterprise. Arguably, the way you're using this $40k is a savvy "family business" plan on a few levels. I hope you and everyone else in your family understands the details, so the plan can be tuned for optimum effect. On that note, I do not think your parents saving for their grandchildren via U.S. savings bonds is a good idea. That's a long-term investment, isn't it? The return of savings bonds over a ten year period is likely going to be much worse than other alternatives. So your intentions here are not quite clear. You can't force other family members to do certain things with your gift money, after all, though you can operate on trust. (Some professionals advise against mere trust. In other words, put everything in writing, even with family members. It's ultimately your call.) You seem to have these expectations for the use of these gifts to your family members. Maybe at a minimum a formal, family meeting is in order, to discuss your dreams and their dreams. Have a huge spreadsheet posterboard. Maybe do a Powerpoint Presentation. I am not joking. Again, it's really not my or anyone's place to place a judgment on how your family runs things. I offer what I hope is a polite observation to optimize the returns of the family "business." Admittedly, you sound very intelligent (ten-years investing; knowing about pretty much all the vehicles). So maybe you just need a little reinforcement. Hence this thread? :-) Part (B) I'm still not quite clear on the details of the ARM, but if that mortgage payment can explode per current interest rates after some five years, I'd pay it off as quickly as possible. Figure what you need to beef up your current emergency fund of $12k. (Some say a year of living expenses. But it really depends on what the condition of one's home, health insurance, cars, etc. are, as well as one's job security, are.) Then beef it up. After this, I personally would put the rest towards the mortgage. Get it paid off. I suppose to minimize the tax implications of this windfall, your 401(k) should be maximized this year. But in susequent years I'd put money into the 401(k) only up to the company matching. Put the rest into paying off the mortgage. After that's done, post back. One more caveat: You indicate your family is operating globally. I for one operate based on what I know of the U.S. economy--its health care system, its stocks, its cost of living and college educations, its tax structure, even U.S. family and cultural values, which do tend to translate to spending/saving habits. A lot of this discussion may have to be seriously adjusted for folks living outside the U.S. |
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#4
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| Tess Millay wrote: - quote - > Hi, do-it-yourselfer of 20+ years here.
Hello Tess!> It seems to me you should break up this query into two parts > as follows: > Part A: > What exactly to do with $40k that you (and I hope your wife) > want to use to help your parents and brother. In which case, > I think to answer intelligently, the group would need more > information on the nature of financial assistance they need. > E.g. monthly living expenses for the brother for a year, so > he's on, ahem, allowance from you (and your wife) for a > year? Help him with a down payment on a condo? Parents have > medical expenses or something devastating? This Part A is > really about the brother's and parents' financial planning, > to some extent. If it's all private, just say it's gotta be > $40k, and it's gotta be liquid over the next few years and > so therefore low risk. I like the CD ladder for this, > assuming, with this yield curve inversion, you go out no > more than about 2.5 years. Thank you for your comments. I am back to the forum after about 10 days. First of all, I finally submitted the signed letter on January 10th that I am ready to accept the payment on January 31st (if I did not take the action, it would be cashed by March 31st anyway). Here are some details about part A of the money. The 40k set-aside for my borther/father is kind of "fungible-money" -- could be used for different purposes. They both live overseas; my borther has finished an undergraduate degree in Electronics, but does not yet have a job. 1. If he gets a job, the bulk of money could be used to buy him a flat/condo -- about 1200 to 1500 sq feet, in a 8-10 storey building will cost about 35K to 60K USD, so I could pay for about 50%, and the rest he could take on as a mortgage; his starting salary in local currency would likely be equivalent to 8K to 20K per year. 2. About 20K could be used to add a second story to my ancestral home where my parents' live (and I visit about 2 to 4 weeks per year). I might retire there in 10 to 15 years -- who knows. 3. I generally remit about 4K to 8K to my parents each year, of which they end up saving about 50% to 75% in grandchildren's names, using local version of US savings bonds. My parents have a total of 5 grandchildren (2 of my babies; 3 of my sisters's) This remittance is budgeted part of our (me & my wife)'s annual expenses. So, part of the set-aside could be thought of as the capital for next few year's remitances. 4. Basically, my parents are well-off by local standards even without any set-aside and/or remitances from me: paid-for house, about 20 acres of farm land, they sell about 80% of the farm produce which is more than enough to meet all their expenses, including medical bills, plus some savings. It certainly helped me get through college, and my first trip to Canada for an MS many years back. 5. Being able to bug savings bonds on a regular basis for their 5 grandchildren, even if it is just a conversion of the remitances I send, provides happiness to them, and that, in turn, provides additional happiness to everyone in the family. My wife and I consider this happiness/joy as a part of the "overall return". Sorry about the rambling nature... - quote - > Part B:
Wifey and I are also thinking that perhaps it's time to prepay some> What to do with the remaining $35k. I would also consider > (1) paying down the mortgage with some of it (but I might > ultimately reject this); more of the mortgage principal, since we are debt-averse people (I wouldn't touch the advice $cott, the mortgage guy, with a 100 foot pole...) We have an 8 year old mortgage, which we paid an accelerated rate for the first 5-6 years. Reduced motgage amount from 322K to about 222K. But for the past 20 months, we have not made any extra principal payments. Presently, paying only $1250, the amortized amount, (rate is 4.5%, fixed for another 5 years, then it will be like 1 year ARM). Alternative idea is that rather than paying $750 extra principal each month, I put that in a DRIP (BAC? IIBK?), and if the mortgage rates increases after 5 years, cash DRIP and pay down principal. Also, in another 5 years, if I stay at the same employer, I am expecting (but NOT counting!) another windfall that should pay off the mortgage completely. I wish could have some idea of how mortgaget rates are gonna look like in 5 years ![]() - quote - > (2) long-term retirement planning,
My daughter (4 years old) is right now overseas, with grandparents & my> including, in particular portfolio allocation details. It's > time to compute how much you must save each year to retire > by 20--, especially with your income halving soon. Also, > your emergency fund of $12k does seem rather spare, but with > #4, that will be doubled. Lastly, I do think it's a good > idea to blow a thousand bucks (maybe closer to two thousand) > on something and enjoy your windfall with your family. Get > it out of your system. sister, going through full language and culture immersion. So we are planning a big party when she gets back in May. Not too many other ideas yet -- cruise, etc., don;t sound fun with two 4 year and 1.5 year old babies. - quote - > If you can elaborate a little on Part A above, or otherwise
I'll aprpeciate your insights.> clarify what is going on here, then I'll add another two > cents. Spoca2005 -- a 10-year do-it-yourselfer, in terms of investing, home buy, etc. |
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#3
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| spoca2005[at]yahoo.com wrote: - quote - > [I am correcting years above, in my own post ... had the years off by
Aha! Makes sense now.> 1.] - quote - > Thanks for this tip -- I was under the mistaken assumption that for
The way it works is that if you've already sold shares of a specific> mutual funds, only average basis could be used. I think I'll be able to > generate some loss by selling some selected purchases from my Strong > Enterprise fund (now Wells Fargo). mutual fund using "average cost" basis, you must continue to do so. If you haven't sold any shares using that method, you can use either "FIFO" (first in, first out) or "specific identification" of share lots, by date. And for the record, if you sell using specific ID or FIFO, you can later switch to "average cost" for future sales. But once you use average cost you can't switch to a different method, for a given mutual fund. Logistically: make sure it's actualy sold using specific-ID by sending a written instruction to the fund company about which shares to sell, and receiving a confirmation regarding the lots sold. In practice this is just a "CYA" letter for the tax file but if it isn't there the IRS could force you into another basis method, if audited. Just call your broker/custodian and tell them you're using specific ID. They'll tell you what to put in the letter & where to send/fax it - or might have a way to do this online. Also, is there any way to use larger - quote - > than 3K loss?
No, the maximum capital loss that can be applied against ordinary incomeis $3k. Anything above that would be carried forward to the next tax year. (speaking here of mutual funds sold at a loss) My wife has about 30K in ESPP stocks -- overall it's - quote - > break-even (current value is close to all the post-tax contribution),
Be very careful with ESPP shares - they're a different beast and have> but the chunk from 2000 and 2001 is seriously under water. I could > choose to sell just this portion. some different tax rules (even with loss shares). That's one to discuss with an accountant or perhaps the ESPP custodian, who should have a tax guide of some kind to give you. - quote - > > Last, be sure to eyeball your projected CA taxes owed vs. taxes deducted
On the bright side (kind of) - in the year you receive all this income,> > from your paycheck, to see if it makes sense to make an estimated tax > > payment in Dec 2006 (which would land on Sked-A as an itemized deduction > > for tax year 2006). This is going to be complicated because of > > phase-outs & whatnot, talk w/your accountant. > Ah, but that will increase my Federal AMT -- this one is absolute nuts! > First I have to pay 9.3% tax to California on all the extra income (no > choice), but that tax payment increases my Federal AMT. Really insane > ... you'll probably be taken out of AMT, because so much of your income is being taxed at 33%+. Not that that's a great thing...it just means you're paying a higher tax rate than the AMT rate. Of course you should check that late in the tax year, based on whatever the AMT scheme looks like at that point - it's likely to change by then. -Tad |
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#2
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| Tad Borek wrote: - quote - > spoca2005[at]yahoo.com wrote:
1.]> > I will have an extra 200K of wage income > > > There's very little flexibility in receiving the payment: it must be > > received between January 31, 2006 and March 31, 2006. > > -- 2005 Gross income: 215K (me: 125K; spouse: 90K) > > -- 2006 Gross income: 420K (due to the one-time 200K extra wage) > > -- Starting 2007 gross income will be about 125K range (wife is > > planning to quit job) > > ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ IMPORTANT [I am correcting years above, in my own post ... had the years off by - quote - > [sorry if you hashed thru this on M.T.M...didn't read there...]
Tad,> Well here's one possibility for saving some taxes while socking away > some retirement money...if your wife is going to work for a couple > months in 2006, and her 401k plan allows her to set a high contribution > rate, she could increase her contribution rate to a high percentage - > even 100%, if allowed - so she hits her $15k annual contribution limit > for 2006 by the time she leaves. Her taxable income for 2006 could end > up being $0, because she deferred it all into the 401k. She should check > this tomorrow if she's still working. Thanks for this idea. I think her company allows this (mine does), so in the year that she is going to quit work, we will use this method to max 401(k) contributions early in the year (as well as use up all FSA). - quote - > The other thing that comes to mind is doing enough tax-loss sales during
Thanks for this tip -- I was under the mistaken assumption that for> 2006 to get to $3,000 in net capital losses, so you knock $3k off that > taxable income for the year - sounds like that's worth about $1400 in > tax savings to you. This may not be possible, it depends on your mutual > fund portfolio and plans for realizing other capital gains during the > year. Keep in mind that you may be able to sell mutual funds on a > lot-by-lot basis, so a dividend-distribution reinvestment from 2000 may > be underwater now and a candidate for a tax-loss sale. mutual funds, only average basis could be used. I think I'll be able to generate some loss by selling some selected purchases from my Strong Enterprise fund (now Wells Fargo). Also, is there any way to use larger than 3K loss? My wife has about 30K in ESPP stocks -- overall it's break-even (current value is close to all the post-tax contribution), but the chunk from 2000 and 2001 is seriously under water. I could choose to sell just this portion. - quote - > Last, be sure to eyeball your projected CA taxes owed vs. taxes deducted
Ah, but that will increase my Federal AMT -- this one is absolute nuts!> from your paycheck, to see if it makes sense to make an estimated tax > payment in Dec 2006 (which would land on Sked-A as an itemized deduction > for tax year 2006). This is going to be complicated because of > phase-outs & whatnot, talk w/your accountant. First I have to pay 9.3% tax to California on all the extra income (no choice), but that tax payment increases my Federal AMT. Really insane ... - quote - > Oh and I think you get the award for "Earliest Tax Planning - 2006". =) > -Tad |
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#1
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| Hi, do-it-yourselfer of 20+ years here. It seems to me you should break up this query into two parts as follows: Part A: What exactly to do with $40k that you (and I hope your wife) want to use to help your parents and brother. In which case, I think to answer intelligently, the group would need more information on the nature of financial assistance they need. E.g. monthly living expenses for the brother for a year, so he's on, ahem, allowance from you (and your wife) for a year? Help him with a down payment on a condo? Parents have medical expenses or something devastating? This Part A is really about the brother's and parents' financial planning, to some extent. If it's all private, just say it's gotta be $40k, and it's gotta be liquid over the next few years and so therefore low risk. I like the CD ladder for this, assuming, with this yield curve inversion, you go out no more than about 2.5 years. Part B: What to do with the remaining $35k. I would also consider (1) paying down the mortgage with some of it (but I might ultimately reject this); (2) long-term retirement planning, including, in particular portfolio allocation details. It's time to compute how much you must save each year to retire by 20--, especially with your income halving soon. Also, your emergency fund of $12k does seem rather spare, but with #4, that will be doubled. Lastly, I do think it's a good idea to blow a thousand bucks (maybe closer to two thousand) on something and enjoy your windfall with your family. Get it out of your system. If you can elaborate a little on Part A above, or otherwise clarify what is going on here, then I'll add another two cents. |
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| spoca2005[at]yahoo.com wrote: - quote - > I will have an extra 200K of wage income
[sorry if you hashed thru this on M.T.M...didn't read there...]> There's very little flexibility in receiving the payment: it must be > received between January 31, 2006 and March 31, 2006. > -- 2004 Gross income: 215K (me: 125K; spouse: 90K) > -- 2005 Gross income: 420K (due to the one-time 200K extra wage) > -- Starting 2006 gross income will be about 125K range (wife is > planning to quit job) > ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ IMPORTANT Well here's one possibility for saving some taxes while socking away some retirement money...if your wife is going to work for a couple months in 2006, and her 401k plan allows her to set a high contribution rate, she could increase her contribution rate to a high percentage - even 100%, if allowed - so she hits her $15k annual contribution limit for 2006 by the time she leaves. Her taxable income for 2006 could end up being $0, because she deferred it all into the 401k. She should check this tomorrow if she's still working. Contrast this to her working 3 months while adding to the 401k at say a 15% deferral rate, on $90k in annual income. Ignoring the ancillary payroll deductions, that's $22.5K in income, and just 15% of that, $2275, would go into the 401k. There would be $19k in taxable income, all being hit at your top marginal rate (because of your $200k windfall). And you couldn't knock it down with an IRA contribution or anything like that. Would that be possible? The other thing that comes to mind is doing enough tax-loss sales during 2006 to get to $3,000 in net capital losses, so you knock $3k off that taxable income for the year - sounds like that's worth about $1400 in tax savings to you. This may not be possible, it depends on your mutual fund portfolio and plans for realizing other capital gains during the year. Keep in mind that you may be able to sell mutual funds on a lot-by-lot basis, so a dividend-distribution reinvestment from 2000 may be underwater now and a candidate for a tax-loss sale. Last, be sure to eyeball your projected CA taxes owed vs. taxes deducted from your paycheck, to see if it makes sense to make an estimated tax payment in Dec 2006 (which would land on Sked-A as an itemized deduction for tax year 2006). This is going to be complicated because of phase-outs & whatnot, talk w/your accountant. Oh and I think you get the award for "Earliest Tax Planning - 2006". =) -Tad |
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#-1
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| I will have an extra 200K of wage income coming up later this month (for details google my post on misc.taxes.moderated). That's large to me, 'cause it's nearly twice my annual salary. There's very little flexibility in receiving the payment: it must be received between January 31, 2006 and March 31, 2006. It will be ordinary income, and employer will deduct ordinary payroll taxes. I have consulted one local tax professional, and also posted on misc.taxes.moderated & fairmark.com -- basically, given my profile (see below), there's really no way to minimize taxes on this. I'll simply have to grin & bear the almost 50% tax hit. After taxes, I'll be left with about 105K of take home money. In February, I'll have to payback an "employer loan" (was used to exercise some options), so after that I will have 75K left. I would welcome financial planning ideas for deciding what is a better use of this 75K money, given the following profile. -- Married with 2 children; both spouses working; all US citizens -- Calif resident; both maximizing 401k (14K each); NOT qualified for Roth -- Funding 529 for both children at $3k/year -- 2004 Gross income: 215K (me: 125K; spouse: 90K) -- 2005 Gross income: 420K (due to the one-time 200K extra wage) -- Starting 2006 gross income will be about 125K range (wife is planning to quit job) ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ IMPORTANT ^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^ -- Mortgage: 220K, 4.5% interest, 7/30 loan (7 years fixed; then 1 year ARM). -- Mortgage payment = 1250; Equity in home = About 300K (no plans to sell). -- ZERO other debts (The 30K payback to employer, already accounted above) -- Emergency fund of about 12K, in Vanguard short term bond fund -- Nonretirement savings: mutual funds + 2 DRIPS ==> total 275K -- One car 2 years old; one car 10 years old; both fully paid and in good shape. -- Employer stock (not options) worth 250K, with 50K basis. I had meant to sell some of it and diversify, but becuase of the extra January wage, I'll need to wait. So far, I have the following "boring" plan for the 75K: 1. Put aside contribute an extra 5K*2 = 10K to the two 529 plans. 2. Put aside 40K in laddered CDs to help my brother (a new college graduate, looking for job) + parents. 3. Start another DRIP and over a year invest 12K. 4. Put aside the 12K for future home expenses (what kind of vehicle?). 5. Use the remaining $1K to fund pleasure activities. Thanks. SPOCA2005 |
| Tags |
| ideas, planning, windfall wage income |
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