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#14
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| Suppose you can reasonably ensure a constant income stream for the rest of your life (either through retirement planning and/or engaging in a activity that you can keep doing until you die , have goodinsurance for a variety of things (including medical and disability), and on a monthly basis, can pay all your bills whittling away any debt you have or acquire, then I think it is okay to spend all the rest of the disposable income you are left with. --Ram |
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#13
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| Brent D. Gardner, ChFC wrote: - quote - > "Andy" <idontcheckthismailbox[at]yahoo.com> wrote in message > news:1105645743.030628.159460[at]f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com... > > If your wife's idea of financial planning is to empty out the bank > > account every month, then you are always going to have financial > > problems. > This ailment is MUCH MORE COMMON than anyone reading this might imagine, and > the disease of spending is not new, either. People have been spending > everything they make since the dawn of the unit of exchange. Even peasants > and serfs borrowed from their landlord, furthering insuring their servitude. I once talked to someone who spent a year living in an indian village in the jungles of Panama. She said that people who were living in dirt floor palm frond huts would spend what little money they got their hands on on stuff like soda pop and candy. As far as the importance of financial discipline, the NY Times (or was it the Wall Street Journal?) had an article some time in the last month about how some professor did some computer modeling and found that impact of proper asset allocation (or lack thereof) on a person's ultimate net worth was miniscule compared to the impact of increasing monthly savings by some relatively small percentage. The moral of the story was that just saving a bit more is more important than balancing your portfolio properly. Andy |
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#12
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| <noreplysoccer[at]hotmail.com> wrote in message news:1105718063.116899.139670[at]z14g2000cwz.googlegroups.com... - quote - > Not sure what the new "check 21 law" is, but would be willing to see a
It's been in the news since October, when the law went into effect. It's> discussion on it. another direct result of 9/11, because the biggest risk to the country in the days following the attack was the fact that money wasn't moving. Most people don't know how paper checks move through our banking system, and without boring everyone with the details, our economic system came VERY close to a VERY REAL meltdown unlike nothing we've ever experienced. Talking heads on TV will tell you that banks could have met the shortfall, but any honest banker will tell you that's not true. We're still at risk, but this new law is a great improvement in our national security, and it's a pretty good benefit to the banks that were prepared (some weren't, some still aren't compliant). The two most apparent changes for consumers is that you're not likely to ever see a paper check again once you give it to a merchant, because the truncating bank (aka "bank of first deposit") is going to convert the paper to an electronic item and then destroy the original, and checks are going to clear a little faster (some bankers tell me that they are seeing checks clear in only TWO HOURS from the moment of deposit). People who live paycheck to paycheck are going to bounce more checks because of Check 21, which means more fees for banks, and probably higher costs in certain distribution channels (i.e., convenience stores, grocery stores, fuel distributors), and most likely an increase in the unbanked population due to the power of ChexSystems negative item database that tracks DDA deficiencies and habitual NSF checkwriters (they make the three credit bureaus look like nice people, in comparison). - quote - > Teaching people discipline is difficult. Discipline is something you
If people had natural discipline, at least regarding money and personal> have or you don't and is one of the most difficult skills to develop, > hone and become good at... finance, the craft of financial advice would be all but nonexistent. Brent D. Gardner, ChFC Chartered Financial Consultant http://www.brentdgardner.com/ http://www.gardnerfinancialgroup.com/ http://www.topgunproducers.com/ Si vis pacem para bellum! "Be ever questioning. Ignorance is not bliss. It is oblivion. You don't go to heaven if you die dumb. Become better informed. Learn from other's mistakes. You could not live long enough to make them all yourself." - Hyman George Rickover (1900-86), Admiral, US Navy, advocated development of nuclear subs & ships The Chartered Life Underwriter (CLU) and Chartered Financial Consultant (ChFC), designations owned and exclusively offered by The American College, signify the highest standards of academic study and professional excellence in the financial services industry. |
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#11
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| Not sure what the new "check 21 law" is, but would be willing to see a discussion on it. As for spending habits, I agree with Brent. It's a tough habit to break. My way of teaching my wife this was to pay cash for everything. Low and behold, our checking account raised its babalce to about $700 within 10 months. We took out the cash in our budget ($240 every 15 days) and used this for grocery, gas and hair appointments. Also didn't use a debit card or credit card and my wife has an appreciation for "financial planning". Teaching people discipline is difficult. Discipline is something you have or you don't and is one of the most difficult skills to develop, hone and become good at... |
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#10
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| "Andy" <idontcheckthismailbox[at]yahoo.com> wrote in message news:1105645743.030628.159460[at]f14g2000cwb.googlegroups.com... - quote - > If your wife's idea of financial planning is to empty out the bank
This ailment is MUCH MORE COMMON than anyone reading this might imagine, and> account every month, then you are always going to have financial > problems. the disease of spending is not new, either. People have been spending everything they make since the dawn of the unit of exchange. Even peasants and serfs borrowed from their landlord, furthering insuring their servitude. One of the many jobs a financial advisor does is curbing the bad behavior. This isn't the most pleasant of activities, but people need, and WANT, to be brow beaten. Just listen to Dr. Laura on the radio, or Dr. Phil on TV. Adults seek out leadership, guidance, and the occassional size elevens planted swiftly on their backside. Good advice ain't enough. The net is FULL of it (matched by an equal part of poor, BAD, and plenty of darn-near-criminal advice), yet the financial ailments aren't going away. In fact, they may be getting worse. More than 10% of Americans are UNbanked (meaning they have NO bank relationship, no savings, no checking, no credit or debit card, not even a pre-paid charge card). That's one out of ten! I'm not alone in predicting that the new Check 21 law is going to force those numbers higher. Financial planning is merely one facet of the craft of advice. There's also financial counseling, and I don't see enough of that being done. Brent D. Gardner, ChFC Chartered Financial Consultant http://www.brentdgardner.com/ http://www.gardnerfinancialgroup.com/ http://www.topgunproducers.com/ Si vis pacem para bellum! "Be ever questioning. Ignorance is not bliss. It is oblivion. You don't go to heaven if you die dumb. Become better informed. Learn from other's mistakes. You could not live long enough to make them all yourself." - Hyman George Rickover (1900-86), Admiral, US Navy, advocated development of nuclear subs & ships The Chartered Life Underwriter (CLU) and Chartered Financial Consultant (ChFC), designations owned and exclusively offered by The American College, signify the highest standards of academic study and professional excellence in the financial services industry. |
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#9
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| noreplysoccer[at]hotmail.com wrote: - quote - > problem with "paying more" is my wife will want to keep payment low
If your wife's idea of financial planning is to empty out the bankand > spend the extra money. Not necessarily a bad thing to keep the wife > happy, but the financial side of me tell me to force our account to pay > the 15 year payoff. I am leaning towards the 30 yr fixed myself (good > fallback plan if we lose jobs or stop working) and trying to convince > my wife I know what I'm doing. > I've heard a couple of theories on the 15 year payoff: > one is to add "next months principle" on ammortization schedule and > send that. Will this pay off in an even 15 years? > one is to figure out 15 year fixed payment and send that each month. > Will this pay off in an even 15 years? > another is to send one extra payment each year. This shortens period > of payment how much? > What I'd like to do is find an amount to pay extra, say $300 each > month, and reduce this by $25 each year and have loan pay off in 15 > years. Reason for this is to reward my wife with more money in budget > each month to spend on herself as mortgage is paid down. account every month, then you are always going to have financial problems. As far as how to know how much to pay every month to pay a loan off in 15 years, just make the same payment as you would for a 15 year mortgage with the same interest rate. If you want to get fancier than that, learn how to use the amortization functions in Excel, and create a spreadsheet which shows you the exact impact on payoff time of any extra payment. It will be a very educational process, and by the end of it you will have a much better grasp of how loans work. Andy |
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#8
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| noreplysoccer[at]hotmail.com <noreplysoccer[at]hotmail.com> wrote: - quote - > it turns out a couple of points on credit score make a HUGE deal.
My advice in this regard is to approach a broker -- they can easily> If my wife score was 680 we would have qualified for an interest > rate which is a .25 point lower. maybe .5 point depending on > another ratio below... quote you a deal also and it's not so dependent on credit scores. --Ram |
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#7
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| noreplysoccer[at]hotmail.com <noreplysoccer[at]hotmail.com> wrote: - quote - > when comparing a 5/1 ARM to a 30 year fixed what would some of you
Why bother? But if you really do want to pay it off in 15 years, you> suggest we consider to choose one or the other? Goal is a 15 year > fixed which we were not approved for, so we know we want to refinance > to a 15 year fixed at some point. easily can. - quote - > For example, cost of 30 year fixed is $90 more than 5/1 going in,
Interest rates will probably end up higher.> but eventually we'll refinance to 15 year fixed, so should we take > lower payment (5/1) knowing that our refinance window is 5 years, or > take 30 year fixed and refinance when "time is right". - quote - > What other factors, other than timing, P/I payments would people
I have nothing against lowest payments but you should do it for a good> suggest my wife and I consider? My wife biases her opinions to > lowest payment possible, I see long term more than she does... reason. The advantage of lower payments is that you get to have more disposable income for now. However, I'd do this based on an analysis of your future income. If your income is going to go up steadily beyond the rate of inflation, and you have a steady profession, then it might be worth it. --Ram |
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#6
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| problem with "paying more" is my wife will want to keep payment low and spend the extra money. Not necessarily a bad thing to keep the wife happy, but the financial side of me tell me to force our account to pay the 15 year payoff. I am leaning towards the 30 yr fixed myself (good fallback plan if we lose jobs or stop working) and trying to convince my wife I know what I'm doing. I've heard a couple of theories on the 15 year payoff: one is to add "next months principle" on ammortization schedule and send that. Will this pay off in an even 15 years? one is to figure out 15 year fixed payment and send that each month. Will this pay off in an even 15 years? another is to send one extra payment each year. This shortens period of payment how much? What I'd like to do is find an amount to pay extra, say $300 each month, and reduce this by $25 each year and have loan pay off in 15 years. Reason for this is to reward my wife with more money in budget each month to spend on herself as mortgage is paid down. On a seperate note: it turns out a couple of points on credit score make a HUGE deal. If my wife score was 680 we would have qualified for an interest rate which is a .25 point lower. maybe .5 point depending on another ratio below... In addition the bank's computers are hard programmed to drop loans which will be paid off in 10 months. We will close on house in November or late October and in December I will make my last student loan payment. That 11th month also affected loans and PMI being added in. How soon would I need to pay down that student loan to get it in the 10 month window and have the pay down appear on a credit report? |
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#5
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| noreplysoccer[at]hotmail.com wrote: - quote - > This was good advice as I already have two quotes in hand to compare
I agree with Joe W's advice: lock in a fixed rate now. Rates will> with what the builders lender gives me. Follow up question: > when comparing a 5/1 ARM to a 30 year fixed what would some of you > suggest we consider to choose one or the other? Goal is a 15 year > fixed which we were not approved for, so we know we want to refinance > to a 15 year fixed at some point. > For example, cost of 30 year fixed is $90 more than 5/1 going in, but > eventually we'll refinance to 15 year fixed, so should we take lower > payment (5/1) knowing that our refinance window is 5 years, or take 30 > year fixed and refinance when "time is right". > What other factors, other than timing, P/I payments would people > suggest my wife and I consider? My wife biases her opinions to lowest > payment possible, I see long term more than she does... almost certainly go up in the next few years, and if you do an ARM now you will almost certainly end up paying a higher rate of interest if you refinance later. Paying a higher rate of interest over the rest of the loan will increase the total you pay in interest by tens of thousands of dollars. If you do a 30 year fixed don't worry about refinancing later to a 15 year, just pay an extra each month and pay down the 30 year at a rate where its paid off in 15 years. Its each to figure out how much extra you need to pay to do this using a spreadsheet. The advantage of this is that it saves the refinancing costs and gives you the flexibility to drop back to the lower 30 year payment in tough times. If you take the ARM because the monthly payments are $90 a month less than a 30 year fixed you could very easily end up paying 5 times the money you "save" in extra interest when and if you have to refinance at a higher interest rate. Andy |
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#4
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| noreplysoccer[at]hotmail.com wrote: - quote - > when comparing a 5/1 ARM to a 30 year fixed what would some of you
The current rates are near their 40-year lows, so vendors will want> suggest we consider to choose one or the other? Goal is a 15 year > fixed which we were not approved for, so we know we want to refinance > to a 15 year fixed at some point. > For example, cost of 30 year fixed is $90 more than 5/1 going in, but > eventually we'll refinance to 15 year fixed, so should we take lower > payment (5/1) knowing that our refinance window is 5 years, or take 30 > year fixed and refinance when "time is right". to sell you an adjustable rate, and you should want to lock in a fixed rate, IMHO. You wanted a 15-year fixed. You can approximate this with your 30-year fixed, by simply paying more principal when you can. Save the refi costs. Joe |
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#3
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| This was good advice as I already have two quotes in hand to compare with what the builders lender gives me. Follow up question: when comparing a 5/1 ARM to a 30 year fixed what would some of you suggest we consider to choose one or the other? Goal is a 15 year fixed which we were not approved for, so we know we want to refinance to a 15 year fixed at some point. For example, cost of 30 year fixed is $90 more than 5/1 going in, but eventually we'll refinance to 15 year fixed, so should we take lower payment (5/1) knowing that our refinance window is 5 years, or take 30 year fixed and refinance when "time is right". What other factors, other than timing, P/I payments would people suggest my wife and I consider? My wife biases her opinions to lowest payment possible, I see long term more than she does... |
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#2
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| noreplysoccer[at]hotmail.com wrote: - quote - > My wife and I started the application process for a new home.
Beware that some websites will sell you cheaply or give you a 'credit score',> Credit scores were 733 for me and 670 for her. Any place on web we can > go to and find out how good these scores are? Any suggestions on how > to "improve" a score of 733? My understanding is this is a good score. but unless it's the real FICO score, it won't be worth much. Lenders invariably use the standard FICO score, which is typically lower than ulteriorly motivated 'credit scores'. Joe |
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#1
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| noreplysoccer[at]hotmail.com wrote: - quote - > My wife and I started the application process for a new home.
Clearly you need to shop around and get offers from a few competing> Credit scores were 733 for me and 670 for her. Any place on web we can > go to and find out how good these scores are? Any suggestions on how > to "improve" a score of 733? My understanding is this is a good score. > In addition, this loan was with the lender recomended by our builder. > If we finance through them, we get $5000 in free options. > It is my opinion then the lender will recoup this $5000 and then some > in interest over the 30 years of the loan. so a reasonable mortgage > question is how many points is this $5000 in free options worth? > Meaning if I can find a loan for a .5% less from another lender, is > this a good deal? > House purchase price is $325,000 plus or minus. > We are at the point where we have a position hold for the next phase, > so we have about 1 month to secure financing. Recomendations for > finding competing mortgage loans welcome. mortgage lenders before you make any decisions. As a starting point you may want to go to bankrate.com to get a general idea of what current interest rates are on mortgage loans. Then go to a couple lenders and get written estimates which include all fees, points, closing costs, etc., and go with the lender who offers the best deal. A difference of 0.5% on a 30 year mortgage loan is substantial. The total interest paid over the life of a 30 year loan for $300K will be $34,000 higher on a 6% loan than on a 5.5% loan. Andy |
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| noreplysoccer[at]hotmail.com <noreplysoccer[at]hotmail.com> wrote: - quote - > Credit scores were 733 for me and 670 for her. Any place on web we can
Try www.myfico.com (a google search will also help).> go to and find out how good these scores are? Any suggestions on how > to "improve" a score of 733? My understanding is this is a good > score. - quote - > It is my opinion then the lender will recoup this $5000 and then some
Try the different loans at www.e-loan.com - you can see what $5000> in interest over the 30 years of the loan. so a reasonable mortgage > question is how many points is this $5000 in free options worth? > Meaning if I can find a loan for a .5% less from another lender, is > this a good deal? would get you for a $325,000 loan in terms of points. --Ram |
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#-1
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| My wife and I started the application process for a new home. Credit scores were 733 for me and 670 for her. Any place on web we can go to and find out how good these scores are? Any suggestions on how to "improve" a score of 733? My understanding is this is a good score. In addition, this loan was with the lender recomended by our builder. If we finance through them, we get $5000 in free options. It is my opinion then the lender will recoup this $5000 and then some in interest over the 30 years of the loan. so a reasonable mortgage question is how many points is this $5000 in free options worth? Meaning if I can find a loan for a .5% less from another lender, is this a good deal? House purchase price is $325,000 plus or minus. We are at the point where we have a position hold for the next phase, so we have about 1 month to secure financing. Recomendations for finding competing mortgage loans welcome. regards. |
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