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#5
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| - quote - > You're overlooking a big part of the equation here: with no mortgage,
What I also think about is that the interest rates on CD's and savings accounts> you can save something like $24K/year that you would otherwise be > spending on house payments. You can think of that as being tax-free > "income" on your investment, and over the 30-year term of a mortgage > it will grow quite nicely, too. :-) > When you're making a decision about whether to pay off a mortgage, you > basically need to compare the mortgage interest rate to the pre-tax > return you might get by investing the money elsewhere. CDs now are > paying basically nothing, but if you think of the 30-year term of a > mortgage and are willing to take some risk, you might well get a > better return over the long term by investing in a blend of equities > and bonds. The other thing to consider is how much liquidity you need > in your assets. > -Sandra the cynic will start to come back up soon. I can't see how they can stay at the rates they are now forever. Once they come up, then I can switch from mutual funds to more fixed rate interest rates in banks. |
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#4
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| sizzlemp[at]aol.com (SizzleMP) writes: - quote - > At first it sounded nice to have no mortgage. But thanks to all the
You're overlooking a big part of the equation here: with no mortgage,> great advice from everyone in this newsgroup, I decided to take the > biggest mortgage I could. The $350,000 I would have in CD/ bond > mutual fund will grow a lot faster than the $40,000 I would have if > I payed off my house. you can save something like $24K/year that you would otherwise be spending on house payments. You can think of that as being tax-free "income" on your investment, and over the 30-year term of a mortgage it will grow quite nicely, too. :-) When you're making a decision about whether to pay off a mortgage, you basically need to compare the mortgage interest rate to the pre-tax return you might get by investing the money elsewhere. CDs now are paying basically nothing, but if you think of the 30-year term of a mortgage and are willing to take some risk, you might well get a better return over the long term by investing in a blend of equities and bonds. The other thing to consider is how much liquidity you need in your assets. -Sandra the cynic |
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#3
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| - quote - > My wife and I are in the market for a house. We already own one, plan > on selling it after we buy the new one. > In our target price range, we have the following assets to apply to a > purchase: > 1/4 of cost of new house in liquid assets > 1/4 of cost of new house in equity in current house > 1/4 of cost of new house in 401 Ks > Other issues: > -- We're fairly risk averse > -- We hope to stay in the new house for 10+ years > -- Logistics pretty much require us to stay put in the current house > until we sell it > -- We hope to rely on one income for a couple of years until the kids > are in school -- day care costs come close to equalling the second > income, and we both don't want to park really young kids in day care if > we can avoid it. > -- We don't have ton of time to manage investments -- much prefer to > park it in a Mutual Fund/CD > What I'm trying to figure out is: > -- how big of a down payment we should make? > -- where to take/borrow the money from? > -- how to move the money around to minimize loan fees? > -- what are the costs and benefits of making a big down payment now, vs. > making a smaller downpayment with an accellerated payment schedule? > In a perfect world, we would obviously just apply all of our liquid > assets to the down payment, but of course we need an emergency reserve, > need to cover closing costs, moving costs, etc. First off, stay away from your 401K, don't even consider that an option. If you are tight for money you can cut back on your contributions or not contribute at all, but do not borrow against it. I would try to put at least 20% down on your new house to avoid paying PMI. Like most people , you can take an equity loan out of you house now to get the cash to buy the new house. Then simply pay off your equity loan when you close. There are several loans to choose from. One in particular is a low ARM loan with interest only payments. You start off at a low interest rate for the first six months ( which is fine since you will sell your house in less that time) and your payments are just the interest( Ex if you borrowed $100K [at]5% for 20 years your payments would be roughly $415 for the interest only, no principle). As far as the advantages of making a big or small down payment, consider this. I am in contract right now for buying a house. I also have my present house on the market. Fortunately, I am in a situation of not having to sell my house to get the funds to buy my new house. But I was facing a big decision of what to do with the mortgage.I could either a) take out the biggest mortgage I could ( $333,700) and have roughly $350,000 in the bank after selling my house, or b) take out the home equity loan on my present house, pay cash for my new house and have no mortgage and be left with roughly $40,000 in the bank. At first it sounded nice to have no mortgage. But thanks to all the great advice from everyone in this newsgroup, I decided to take the biggest mortgage I could. The $350,000 I would have in CD/ bond mutual fund will grow a lot faster than the $40,000 I would have if I payed off my house. |
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#2
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| In article <404356C5.2AEE[at]hotmail.nospam.com> , Charlie h <ch57921[at]hotmail.nospam.com> wrote: - quote - > 1/4 of cost of new house in liquid assets
I would suggest that the equity in your house will do as an emergency> 1/4 of cost of new house in equity in current house > 1/4 of cost of new house in 401 Ks > What I'm trying to figure out is: > -- how big of a down payment we should make? > -- where to take/borrow the money from? > -- how to move the money around to minimize loan fees? > -- what are the costs and benefits of making a big down payment now, vs. > making a smaller downpayment with an accellerated payment schedule? > In a perfect world, we would obviously just apply all of our liquid > assets to the down payment, but of course we need an emergency reserve, > need to cover closing costs, moving costs, etc. reserve fund for the time being. I would take all of the liquid assets, all of the current house equity, and none of the 401K money, and make the biggest possible down payment (and cover the closing costs). Having a house 50% paid off means much lower monthly payments, and much more security. Even if the worst happens, it will be far easier to make those smaller monthly payments. You also will have the option of doing a 10 or 15 year loan rather than a 30, which means a better interest rate, which saves even more money. - quote - > I've looked a little bit into bridge loans based on the equity in the
Bridge loans are not as popular today as they once were. What I> current house, but have had a hard time figuring out the costs. see folks doing is using home equity loans that are taken out or paid off at closing. There are usually no set-up fees for these H/E loans, and the interest rates are cheap right now. And if you have the equity, they are easy to set up. - quote - > As an alternative, I've thought about borrowing from 401Ks short term
It sounds like you already know that taking out 401K money is a very> (Absolutely, positively NOT long term) but worry about opportunity > costs. poor idea. It is expensive money, and it is your retirement. I would even suggest that taking a loan from a 401K is not a very good idea. In most cases, if you lose your job, that 401K money is either due right away, or it becomes taxable income. Both options are bad. The chances of losing a job is always there, but now, more than ever, it is a reality for people who thought that they were safe. - quote - > Thinking about this starts getting really complicated, throwing taxes
I wouldn't worry too much about taxes. The problem is that what is> into the equation gets more complicated, so any insights would be > appreciated. right to do today may very well change at any time when either the US Congress or your local state decides to change the laws. It is also not a good idea to chase the mortgage deduction...it makes little sense to spend $1 in interest to get 30 cents in tax relief. Its OK to take the deduction if you have to have a mortgage, but don't get a mortgage just for the deduction. -john- -- ================================================== ================== John A. Weeks III 952-432-2708 john[at]johnweeks.com Newave Communications http://www.johnweeks.com ================================================== ================== |
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#1
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| On Mon, 1 Mar 2004 11:43:43 CST, Sandra Loosemore <sandra[at]frogsonice.com> wrote: - quote - > Having to pay two mortgages for months while you're
Second that. Of all the risks you can think of in this process,> trying to unload your old house can really be a major drain on your > finances. If you think this could happen, you might want to put off > signing a contract to buy a new house until you have a firm offer on > your old one. owning two homes has to be near number one. If you need some wiggle space between sale and purchase, include in the sales contract (the one you sign up front with the listing agent) the word "negotiable" beside occupancy date. That way, if someone wants in quickly, get 'em to give you some more money for it (and use the extra money for rental quarters). In fact, I always ask folks to put off any search for the new house because they'll surely find it. The nice new house isn't a problem anyway - selling the old one is. And when you find it, there will be tremendous pressure on you to do something you wouldn't ordinarily do - contingency clause, lower your current house price, etc. It can ruin an otherwise fun experience. Of course, you might get lucky... <grin -HW "Skip" Weldon Columbia, SC |
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| Charlie h <ch57921[at]hotmail.nospam.com> writes: - quote - > My wife and I are in the market for a house. We already own one, plan
If it were me, I'd put 20% down using money from your liquid assets.> on selling it after we buy the new one. > In our target price range, we have the following assets to apply to a > purchase: > 1/4 of cost of new house in liquid assets > 1/4 of cost of new house in equity in current house > 1/4 of cost of new house in 401 Ks > [snip] > What I'm trying to figure out is: > -- how big of a down payment we should make? > -- where to take/borrow the money from? > -- how to move the money around to minimize loan fees? > -- what are the costs and benefits of making a big down payment now, vs. > making a smaller downpayment with an accellerated payment schedule? You'll get more cash to replenish your emergency fund when your current house sells. If it were me, if I needed more short-term cash for moving and other expenses in the meantime, I'd prefer to draw on my credit cards rather than touching a 401K. But.... this assumes that you are confident you can sell your current home pretty much immediately, and at a price that will give you your equity back. Having to pay two mortgages for months while you're trying to unload your old house can really be a major drain on your finances. If you think this could happen, you might want to put off signing a contract to buy a new house until you have a firm offer on your old one. -Sandra |
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#-1
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| My wife and I are in the market for a house. We already own one, plan on selling it after we buy the new one. In our target price range, we have the following assets to apply to a purchase: 1/4 of cost of new house in liquid assets 1/4 of cost of new house in equity in current house 1/4 of cost of new house in 401 Ks Other issues: -- We're fairly risk averse -- We hope to stay in the new house for 10+ years -- Logistics pretty much require us to stay put in the current house until we sell it -- We hope to rely on one income for a couple of years until the kids are in school -- day care costs come close to equalling the second income, and we both don't want to park really young kids in day care if we can avoid it. -- We don't have ton of time to manage investments -- much prefer to park it in a Mutual Fund/CD What I'm trying to figure out is: -- how big of a down payment we should make? -- where to take/borrow the money from? -- how to move the money around to minimize loan fees? -- what are the costs and benefits of making a big down payment now, vs. making a smaller downpayment with an accellerated payment schedule? In a perfect world, we would obviously just apply all of our liquid assets to the down payment, but of course we need an emergency reserve, need to cover closing costs, moving costs, etc. I've looked a little bit into bridge loans based on the equity in the current house, but have had a hard time figuring out the costs. As an alternative, I've thought about borrowing from 401Ks short term (Absolutely, positively NOT long term) but worry about opportunity costs. Short term, I want to minimize immediate costs (loan fees, points), avoid an overly complicated strategy, keep a sufficient cash reserve for unexpected moving/house repair/closing costs, and put down a sufficient down payment to avoid mortgage insurance and generate trust on the part of the seller. One year after purchase of the new home, we want to be able to have the 401 Ks fully funded, a 6 month cash reserve fund, smaller monthly mortgage payment, extra assets to balance out the loss of one income, and also minimize our long term payout of interest. Thinking about this starts getting really complicated, throwing taxes into the equation gets more complicated, so any insights would be appreciated. |
| Tags |
| house, issues, purchase |
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