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#54
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| - quote - > Michael, what about good ol' savings bonds? Either I-bonds, whose rates
I'll look as I have at everything else. Thanks.> are adjusted for inflation, or EEs, whose rates are tied to 5-year > Treasury bonds. They're cheap and easy to buy, and can be redeemed as > early as 6 months from purchase (though there's a small penalty for > early redemptions). Lots of information available at: > http://www.publicdebt.treas.gov/sav/sav.htm - quote - > Keep in mind that REITs are much more volatile than short/int bonds - a > bit more like stocks in that regard. Though I think they fit in nicely > in a longer-term portfolio, I'd be wary of buying them for such a short > window, unless you're willing to accept the risk that you'll sell back > for a lower price. > About three years ago, REITs as a group were priced at a level below > that of their assets, and paid a nice yield, so they looked like a > bargain. Currently that's flipped - they're priced above the value of > their assets and yields are quite a bit lower (some REITs are paying out > of capital, rather than earnings, to maintain their dividends). This > isn't surprising when you see all the "for lease" signs out there. You > can find some exceptions and of course it could pay off, but I see this > sector as risky for an investor looking to cash in as soon as 3 years > from now. The yield will be higher, but you might sell at a loss, so > bear that in mind when allocating dollars. This is great to know since I have just been watching the REITs and they seem to be returning unbelievable results. Paying out capital to maintain earnings is a pretty good explanation at least in part. How about something like a Fidelity Fund, FINPX ( FIDELITY INFLATION PROTECTED BOND FUND). 1 year return is 7.76. Anyone have any knowledge of this type of fund that I can't easily read on a prospectus? Thanks much, Mike |
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#53
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| Caroline wrote: - quote - > "Tad Borek" <borekfm[at]pacbell.net> wrote
Good catch! I forgot they changed that last year.> > Michael, what about good ol' savings bonds? Either I-bonds, whose rates > > are adjusted for inflation, or EEs, whose rates are tied to 5-year > > Treasury bonds. They're cheap and easy to buy, and can be redeemed as > > early as 6 months from purchase > Nit: It's now one year for both EE and I bonds. -Tad |
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#52
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| "Tad Borek" <borekfm[at]pacbell.net> wrote snip - quote - > Michael, what about good ol' savings bonds? Either I-bonds, whose rates
Nit: It's now one year for both EE and I bonds.> are adjusted for inflation, or EEs, whose rates are tied to 5-year > Treasury bonds. They're cheap and easy to buy, and can be redeemed as > early as 6 months from purchase See question and answer 2.4 at http://www.publicdebt.treas.gov/mar/...restronredempt |
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#51
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| Michael Grinnell wrote: - quote - > I can live without touching the principal, but I am less risk averse
Michael, what about good ol' savings bonds? Either I-bonds, whose rates> than CDs. I also don't want to get locked into something I can't > change for that long if the situation changes and something else looks > more attractive. are adjusted for inflation, or EEs, whose rates are tied to 5-year Treasury bonds. They're cheap and easy to buy, and can be redeemed as early as 6 months from purchase (though there's a small penalty for early redemptions). Lots of information available at: http://www.publicdebt.treas.gov/sav/sav.htm - quote - > I am a strong believer in diversification so I am shopping for good
Keep in mind that REITs are much more volatile than short/int bonds - a> options to fit into such a portfolio. Thanks for the ideas. I would > really like some insight on REITs and also the take on Loan > Participation funds. Are these at all appropriate for someone with a > 3-5 year time frame? bit more like stocks in that regard. Though I think they fit in nicely in a longer-term portfolio, I'd be wary of buying them for such a short window, unless you're willing to accept the risk that you'll sell back for a lower price. About three years ago, REITs as a group were priced at a level below that of their assets, and paid a nice yield, so they looked like a bargain. Currently that's flipped - they're priced above the value of their assets and yields are quite a bit lower (some REITs are paying out of capital, rather than earnings, to maintain their dividends). This isn't surprising when you see all the "for lease" signs out there. You can find some exceptions and of course it could pay off, but I see this sector as risky for an investor looking to cash in as soon as 3 years from now. The yield will be higher, but you might sell at a loss, so bear that in mind when allocating dollars. -Tad |
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#50
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| - quote - > A suggestion could be a no surrender charge annuity, The Hartford has and > the prospectus is at > http://www.hartfordinvestor.com/prod...055507234.html Unfortunately, according to the document, this is not available in Puerto Rico or Minnesota. I am in the latter. I'll read the fine print, but in the meantime any other ideas? Thanks, Mike |
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#49
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| A suggestion could be a no surrender charge annuity, The Hartford has and the prospectus is at http://www.hartfordinvestor.com/prod...055507234.html "Michael Grinnell" <msgrinnell[at]charter.net> wrote in message news:237a8ae7.0401141103.4d204ca7[at]posting.google.com... - quote - > > Are you buying a house? > No. Have about 30% equity in my house and a 15 year fixed mortgage so > no PMI, either. > > Is the 3-5 year term until you retire? > No, I am in no rush to retire, but I will be 65 in 28 years. Kind of > like my job now. > > Do you already have a longer term portfolio? > At present with my two children, wife staying at home, and assorted > expenses I am able to max out my and my wife's Roth IRAs, put away > 300/month in each of my kids' 529 plans, but only get about half the > max for my 403b at present. > > How liquid does it need to be? > Not particularly. > > Do you have an emergency fund? > Yes, although what were are 'talking' about is counting as a backup to > the emergency fund. This pot of $$ I am setting aside for expenses > such a new car once the wheels finally fall off my current vehicle, > re-shingling/re-siding my house when it finally needs it and other > assorted projects that are elective and may be pushed off to whenever > I feel like doing them. The bulk of the proceeds came from the gains > on the sale of house. There's about 18K to invest right now. I > anticipate my current vehicle to last between 3 and 5 more years and > it is paid for now. Worst case scenario here is that I would have to > finance a new vehicle if the investments were not looking as good as I > had hoped at the time. Sometimes I wonder if this is a decent plan or > whether I should just take all this and shove it into my 403b and > worry about paying for these things once the time comes. I realized a > long time ago, however, that borrowing is always more expensive than > not, especially when I can use the money for an extended period > before. |
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#48
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| "Michael Grinnell" <msgrinnell[at]charter.net> wrote - quote - > > Investment grade (that is, non-junk) new issue corporate bonds of 3-5 year
I am not acquainted with (the software program?) RiskMetrics although from the> > maturity were recently paying about 2.5% to 3.8%. New issue bonds don't > usually have a commission fee. > I have had some in an an intermediate bond fund in the past, but > perhaps someone can explain to me why on RiskMetrics if I put this > into my portfolio, the intermediate bond shows up as having a > sub-optimal return for the risk involved. This is particularly > confusing when the risk/return for both a REIT and Loan Participation > fund are better than expected and my actual return in the past has > always been better for the intermediate bond fund. context above I have a good guess about what it does. Do tell more. I draw a huge distinction between bond funds and individual bonds, particularly in the current economic climate. I personally do not recommend a bond fund for a known, short period of time like 3-5 years, unless it's part of a very diverse short-term portfolio. Others may differ on this point. Hopefully the thread length will increase with input reflecting more diverse sources. snip - quote - > > If you want more risk and quite possibly higher yields, consider electric
In the last two years, I have had good experiences with two electric utilities,> > utility stocks. Good yields especially if one counts the new dividend tax break. > > But there will probably be a commission fee. > I had a couple hundred shares of AEP for years and years (gift from my > grandparents) and that stock was the biggest dog in the world. They > recently cut the dividend in half from $0.60 (which was the only thing > going for it). That prompted me to get rid of it. Therefore, I am > pretty wary of utilities. so taking your experience into account too, I think I would start by looking for an electric utility index and study its history before rejecting them altogether. Then I'd research good metrics for electric utility financial strength and see if anything is appealing. AEP is yielding about 4.5% right now. This seems a typical high yield for an electric utility. This is very hard to beat, either with other stocks (where I think the average yield is between 2 and 3%), or with 5-year high grade bonds. But as you know, the risk is higher. I suspect you know all this already. Just adding my somewhat different opinion. :-) snip - quote - > I am a strong believer in diversification so I am shopping for good
Can't help on Loan Participation Funds but will look forward to further> options to fit into such a portfolio. Thanks for the ideas. I would > really like some insight on REITs and also the take on Loan > Participation funds. Are these at all appropriate for someone with a > 3-5 year time frame? discussion of these. Re REITs, I found the following Jan. 2 article interesting: "Can REITs Repeat Results?" http://personal.fidelity.com/myfidel...ty.members.fid elity.com:80/investorsWeekly/cms/null.dyn?keyword=null (If the link fails, I can email you a copy of the article.) |
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#47
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| "Rich Carreiro" <rlcarr[at]animato.arlington.ma.us> wrote in message news:m31xq2iaza.fsf[at]animato.home.lan... - quote - > "Caroline" <caroline10027remove[at]earthlink.net> writes:
Yes, that's the way banks and credit unions do it here. I have elderly> > > Most CDs I've seen let you withdraw any amount of accumulated > > > interest at any time without penalty. So I don't see the point > > > of the "...or yield" phrase above. > > > Hm. I'm accustomed to a pretty stiff penalty for withdrawing interest on a CD > > before maturity. > Maybe it's a regional thing? Up here in New England, pretty much everything > from megabanks (like Fleet) to 5-6 branch outfits (like Bank of Newport) > allow interest to be withdrawn at any time. Heck, they'll even mail you > a monthly interest check if you want it. friends who have the monthly interest automatically deposited into their checking accounts. Elizabeth Richardson |
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#46
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| "Caroline" <caroline10027remove[at]earthlink.net> writes: - quote - > > Most CDs I've seen let you withdraw any amount of accumulated
Maybe it's a regional thing? Up here in New England, pretty much everything> > interest at any time without penalty. So I don't see the point > > of the "...or yield" phrase above. > Hm. I'm accustomed to a pretty stiff penalty for withdrawing interest on a CD > before maturity. from megabanks (like Fleet) to 5-6 branch outfits (like Bank of Newport) allow interest to be withdrawn at any time. Heck, they'll even mail you a monthly interest check if you want it. -- Rich Carreiro rlcarr[at]animato.arlington.ma.us |
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#45
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| - quote - > Are you buying a house?
No. Have about 30% equity in my house and a 15 year fixed mortgage sono PMI, either. - quote - > Is the 3-5 year term until you retire?
No, I am in no rush to retire, but I will be 65 in 28 years. Kind oflike my job now. - quote - > Do you already have a longer term portfolio?
At present with my two children, wife staying at home, and assortedexpenses I am able to max out my and my wife's Roth IRAs, put away 300/month in each of my kids' 529 plans, but only get about half the max for my 403b at present. - quote - > How liquid does it need to be?
Not particularly.- quote - > Do you have an emergency fund?
Yes, although what were are 'talking' about is counting as a backup tothe emergency fund. This pot of $$ I am setting aside for expenses such a new car once the wheels finally fall off my current vehicle, re-shingling/re-siding my house when it finally needs it and other assorted projects that are elective and may be pushed off to whenever I feel like doing them. The bulk of the proceeds came from the gains on the sale of house. There's about 18K to invest right now. I anticipate my current vehicle to last between 3 and 5 more years and it is paid for now. Worst case scenario here is that I would have to finance a new vehicle if the investments were not looking as good as I had hoped at the time. Sometimes I wonder if this is a decent plan or whether I should just take all this and shove it into my 403b and worry about paying for these things once the time comes. I realized a long time ago, however, that borrowing is always more expensive than not, especially when I can use the money for an extended period before. |
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#44
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| "Rich Carreiro" <rlcarr[at]animato.arlington.ma.us> wrote - quote - > "Caroline" <caroline10027remove[at]earthlink.net> writes:
Hm. I'm accustomed to a pretty stiff penalty for withdrawing interest on a CD> > If you absolutely want the principal back intact and can live > > without touching the principal or yield for a certain amount of > > time, go with CDs. > Most CDs I've seen let you withdraw any amount of accumulated > interest at any time without penalty. So I don't see the point > of the "...or yield" phrase above. before maturity. I just did a quick google skim and it seems to back up my claim. Maybe there are exceptions out there. Either way, perhaps better wording would be, "the full yield of the CD will result only if one does not touch the interest or principal until after maturity." |
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#43
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| - quote - > Investment grade (that is, non-junk) new issue corporate bonds of 3-5 year
I have had some in an an intermediate bond fund in the past, but> maturity were recently paying about 2.5% to 3.8%. New issue bonds don't > usually have a commission fee. perhaps someone can explain to me why on RiskMetrics if I put this into my portfolio, the intermediate bond shows up as having a sub-optimal return for the risk involved. This is particularly confusing when the risk/return for both a REIT and Loan Participation fund are better than expected and my actual return in the past has always been better for the intermediate bond fund. - quote - > Muni bonds are likely similar after taking into account the tax break.
I am in a relatively low tax bracket so tax issues really don't giveme much of a boost. - quote - > Treasury Notes are yielding about the same; maybe a bit lower than corporate
I've heard about this before, but have never looked into it carefully.> bonds, but one should check this. See www.treasurydirect.com . No commissions > if you open a free account at Treasury Direct. Will have to do so now. - quote - > Non-jumbo CDs from www.bankrate.com are yielding about the same. No commission > fee but be wary of other fees a bank may impose for the service of keeping your > account for you. - quote - > If you want more risk and quite possibly higher yields, consider electric > utility stocks. Good yields especially if one counts the new dividend tax break. > But there will probably be a commission fee. I had a couple hundred shares of AEP for years and years (gift from my grandparents) and that stock was the biggest dog in the world. They recently cut the dividend in half from $0.60 (which was the only thing going for it). That prompted me to get rid of it. Therefore, I am pretty wary of utilities. - quote - > Poster R Wink mentioned www.quantumonline.com (Income Tables, Exchange Traded > Income Securities) a few weeks ago. It (and no doubt other sites) lists various > high income, low risk hybrids. These are traded on, for example, the NY stock > exchange but typically (always?) pay interest (not dividends). Many are rated > the same way corporate bonds are rated, so one can get perhaps a better handle > on the risk as opposed to guessing what an ordinary electric utility stock will > do in five years. Registration is free at the quantum site, and I found it > user-friendly. Again, there will probably be a commission fee. Again, thanks for the lead. Before I ask questions I'll look at the site. - quote - > If you absolutely want the principal back intact and can live without touching
I can live without touching the principal, but I am less risk averse> the principal or yield for a certain amount of time, go with CDs. If you want to > enjoy the yield during the 3-5 years but again want virtually no risk, go with > Treasury Notes. than CDs. I also don't want to get locked into something I can't change for that long if the situation changes and something else looks more attractive. - quote - > Or mix all of the above to achieve diversity and thus optimize yield and risk, > but at less guarantee of getting all > the principal back then having only CDs or Treasury Notes. I am a strong believer in diversification so I am shopping for good options to fit into such a portfolio. Thanks for the ideas. I would really like some insight on REITs and also the take on Loan Participation funds. Are these at all appropriate for someone with a 3-5 year time frame? Mike |
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#42
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| Question: Are you buying a house? Is the 3-5 year term until you retire? Do you already have a longer term portfolio? How liquid does it need to be? Do you have an emergency fund? Your answers will point out where the best options will be. "Michael Grinnell" <msgrinnell[at]charter.net> wrote in message news:237a8ae7.0401131922.66f118c6[at]posting.google.com... - quote - > List, > If someone were to be putting funds away for a purchase 3-5 years in > the future, what would be some ideas for places to be putting these > funds? I have looked at older postings and while informative, they > are a little stale given current economic conditions. I have looked > at a REIT as a pleasant, low-cost way to diversify a little more, but > they have all gone so high in the past few years I am very wary of > buying high and watching the air leak out of my balloon. > Thanks, > Mike |
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#41
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| "Caroline" <caroline10027remove[at]earthlink.net> writes: - quote - > If you absolutely want the principal back intact and can live
Most CDs I've seen let you withdraw any amount of accumulated> without touching the principal or yield for a certain amount of > time, go with CDs. interest at any time without penalty. So I don't see the point of the "...or yield" phrase above. -- Rich Carreiro rlcarr[at]animato.arlington.ma.us |
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#40
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| Investment grade (that is, non-junk) new issue corporate bonds of 3-5 year maturity were recently paying about 2.5% to 3.8%. New issue bonds don't usually have a commission fee. Muni bonds are likely similar after taking into account the tax break. Treasury Notes are yielding about the same; maybe a bit lower than corporate bonds, but one should check this. See www.treasurydirect.com . No commissions if you open a free account at Treasury Direct. Non-jumbo CDs from www.bankrate.com are yielding about the same. No commission fee but be wary of other fees a bank may impose for the service of keeping your account for you. If you want more risk and quite possibly higher yields, consider electric utility stocks. Good yields especially if one counts the new dividend tax break. But there will probably be a commission fee. Poster R Wink mentioned www.quantumonline.com (Income Tables, Exchange Traded Income Securities) a few weeks ago. It (and no doubt other sites) lists various high income, low risk hybrids. These are traded on, for example, the NY stock exchange but typically (always?) pay interest (not dividends). Many are rated the same way corporate bonds are rated, so one can get perhaps a better handle on the risk as opposed to guessing what an ordinary electric utility stock will do in five years. Registration is free at the quantum site, and I found it user-friendly. Again, there will probably be a commission fee. If you absolutely want the principal back intact and can live without touching the principal or yield for a certain amount of time, go with CDs. If you want to enjoy the yield during the 3-5 years but again want virtually no risk, go with Treasury Notes. If you want a bit more risk and again would like to enjoy the yield during the 3-5 years, add some investment grade corporate or muni bonds. For comparable or perhaps a bit more risk, I would say then go to the hybrids. Lastly, turn to the electric utility stocks. Or mix all of the above to achieve diversity and thus optimize yield and risk, but at less guarantee of getting all the principal back then having only CDs or Treasury Notes. "Michael Grinnell" <msgrinnell[at]charter.net> wrote - quote - > If someone were to be putting funds away for a purchase 3-5 years in > the future, what would be some ideas for places to be putting these > funds? I have looked at older postings and while informative, they > are a little stale given current economic conditions. I have looked > at a REIT as a pleasant, low-cost way to diversify a little more, but > they have all gone so high in the past few years I am very wary of > buying high and watching the air leak out of my balloon. |
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#39
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| List, If someone were to be putting funds away for a purchase 3-5 years in the future, what would be some ideas for places to be putting these funds? I have looked at older postings and while informative, they are a little stale given current economic conditions. I have looked at a REIT as a pleasant, low-cost way to diversify a little more, but they have all gone so high in the past few years I am very wary of buying high and watching the air leak out of my balloon. Thanks, Mike |
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| idea, portfolio, short or medium, term |
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